Three Days in Squamish - 08.06-08.11

Sabrina and I teamed up for three days in Squamish. We had big plans. There was talk on the drive up about Diedre, Calculus Crack, Snake and St. Vitus. We even discussed The Ultimate Everything. Could these all be done in two and half days? We were about to find out.

Day 1:
In the car we eventually decided to hit Shannon Falls on the first day. We figured trying to get on busy apron climbs on a Saturday late in the morning was not going to benefit us in our time use equation and opted for Shannon Falls. After a quick stop to set up camp (the last tent site!) we got rolling south to Shannon Falls.

Our objective there was the new route Skywalker. A mellow 5.8 multi pitch route that would be good for us to do as our intro to the weekend. We hiked quickly up to the base to get in the queue. There was a second leaving the ground, and a party of two ahead of us. We geared up while we waited. Three parties of two arrived shortly afterward. This is a very popular climb.

Finally it was our turn, and I waited for the party ahead of us to get to the belay before I started out. The first moves were a touch tricky with a seeping corner where I wanted to place a foot. Eventually I succumbed to putting a foot in the wet corner to make the crux move of the pitch and continue up. There was then a move leaving the crack to traverse the slab to where the crack continues and up I went to a tree belay. (The party ahead of us was currently occupying both bolted anchors. ) I brought Sabrina up in time for her to head up the next pitch behind their second.

The next pitch was a 5.8 corner that was a little compressed, but offered great climbing and good pro opportunities. I found it a little rough on my right foot as I continuously wedged it into the corner/crack. But it was a nice pitch. I got the next pitch which followed some cracks up to a heady move right before the next belay. Gear was good until that point, but sort of disappeared in the last ten feet or so. I made the moves and brought Sabrina up.

The next pitch(4) is where the route gets its name. It is the Skywalker Traverse. One of the bolts at the belay actually says "May the Force be with You." It is a really easy, somewhat exposed traverse. It is slabby and can be done with counter pressure with hands in the crack at the base of the wall above it, but I walked it for the most part with my hand on the wall.

The final pitch was a short easy bolted slab that I ran up and brought Sabrina to the top. This route was an excellent warm up for us, and a pretty nice route for the grade.

We walked off and headed to the Klahanie Crack area. There was of course a line for that route as well and we waited for a couple to get off of Dirty Dickie before we attempted to climb it. Sabrina led it and I followed, finding the wide section near the top to be the crux. We rapped, and then Klahanie Crack was available. Sabrina racked up for it, and headed off on the sharp end. She was placing a lot of gear due to it being late in the day and her energy level. This caused concern about having enough gear to finish the pitch. Her feet were sore from jamming the crack and she hung a few times to cool them off. Once at the top she brought me up and we rapped. With our feet worn out, we did not even bother with Cardu Crack. Maybe next time. A cool soak of our feet in Shannon Creek did the trick before we returned to our camp site.

Day 2:
We had big ambitions of climbing a new route, the North Face variation of Squamish Buttress, aka Squamish Buttface. Our approach climb was to be Snake on the apron. Definitely not the fastest way up to the South Gully, but one we thought capable of doing. The alarm went off at 5am and we both felt a little tired from the previous day to wake up at that point. So we slept in until about 6am. It was at least a few more hours before we were able to leave the campground and walk to the base of the route.

Even though the first pitch is 5th class, it appears the guide book either wants you to scramble the pitch, or simply does not count it in the pitch total. We roped up for it and ended up climbing two short pitches to reach the ledge where Snake starts. Since I led the approach pitches, Sabrina took the lead on the first pitch, which starts the right facing corner climbing. Before she left, we discussed if she would do the unprotected 5.7 traverse or head up to the tree leaving me to the traverse. She told me she might, but would probably end up at the tree. Which is where she ended the pitch and brought me up to. I led out for the 5.7 traverse, and was not happy with the lack of protection. I was able to sling a horn, but botching the moves on the traverse would have led to a decent pendulum. I balked numerous times attempting the traverse high until I somehow noticed a really good foot hold low and down climbed a few moves to make the traverse from there. Once on the low path, I made quick work of the traverse and was at the bolts on the other side, bringing Sabrina in.

The next pitch was lightly protected 5.9 traverse, so I got that one too. It started out on easy ledges and ramps to a good sized ledge with a not so good sized bush. There are two variations that follow: one that continues left on a unprotected slabby traverse of a dyke, or another that heads up a slab with a 2" corner moving left once you gain some ledges. Both options were 5.9. I placed a cam at my feet and went left. There was a large hand pocket about two thirds of the way, but I couldn't reach it and came back. I looked up. It appeared promising. There was a small pocket in the corner where I got at least three lobes of a blue alien. I was going up. By placing the cam I negated the first hand hold on that section but made do with what I got until I got the second hand hold and kept it until I could reach the ledges above. On safer ground, I slung a horn and headed to the belay tree. I brought Sabrina up as she thanked me for leading the sketchy slab.

Sabrina got the next pitch and headed up the long right facing corner. There was a steeper section early on, but the crux came close to the next bolted anchor. I quickly followed as Daryl and Luke from the previous day were now on our tails. I offered them to pass at the next belay, but Daryl was only about a quarter up the pitch when I arrived at Sabrina's location. So I quickly headed out thinking we could stay ahead of them. This was proving true as I dispatched the first half of the pitch quickly. There were few pro opportunities, which kept me moving quickly. The lay backing of the corner was a touch strenuous, and moving kept it more manageable. Then I came up on the crux. There were some thin moves up a flake before gaining a ledge at the base of a large wall. A traverse back right overcomes the wall, but not without going through the crux first.

I got to the ledge and slung some roots. Moving further, I removed the sling and placed it on the tree in the middle of the traverse. For some reason I had my feet really high and they were getting tired. I placed a cam in a pocket a few feet from the tree. I tried to move right, but couldn't figure out the moves. My feet were getting tired. I hung. My foot slipped while hanging. There was a patch of slick damp rock from a seep and my foot must have got in it. I dried it a bit. I attempted again. No luck, I was hanging again. But this time I dropped my feet. All I have to do is climb it like a slab, and not rely on my hands so much I thought. I tried again. But it still couldn't make the move. Then I finally shortened the draw on the cam and was able to make the move and zip around the corner to the next belay. I brought Sabrina up and she quickly moved on to the final 5.7 pitch and then we scrambled up to Broadway for a lunch.

During our lunch break we discussed our slowness and tiredness. We also discussed which route we should take to reach Squamish Buttress. There were four people lined up at Memorial Crack and we had moved slow to this point. It was later in the day than we wanted, and I offered a suggestion to Sabrina that we head down and perhaps try another route on the apron and shoot for Squamish Buttress the following day. On the way down we were once again fairly slow and chatted a bit with other Seattle climbers on the trail. We then chatted a bit with Luke and Daryl before heading down. It was now 4:30pm and I recommended to Sabrina we call it a day.

Day 3:
We awoke tired again, but we were motivated and got out of the tent quicker and started our day. We left the campground at least an hour earlier than the previous day and hoped to do Diedre as our apron route. Upon arriving at Diedre, there was one party climbing and another waiting. We opted to take Banana Peel to the top as it also would deposit us at the base of Boomstick Crack. Sabrina led up to the crack and started the traverse. When the rope ran out, I simul climbed until I reached her at the base of the first real pitch. She led again which gave me the crux pitch of the route. I almost passed the bolt on the way to a .10b bolt before Sabrina caught me and directed me in the right path. I went through the crux moves, and brought Sabrina up. We danced up the rest of the pitches and took a snack break on Broadway before tackling Boomstick Crack.

Sabrina balked at the opening crux moves, but I wouldn't succumb to her pleas of leading it. She got the moves and made quick work of the rest of the pitch. I climbed up to her and dispatched the remaining bit before untying in the woods. We kept our rock shoes on and scrambled up to the base of Squamish Buttress. We stopped for a bit in the forest to have lunch and then arrived at the base.

I took the first lead. But we allowed a quicker team to go first before I left the ground. That was pretty much the last we saw of them. The opening moves of the first pitch are easy gaining a roof, but then there are some thin moves to a bolt, and then even thinner moves above the bolt, the crux of the pitch. I took a bit to unlock the moves and then I was on my way. I combined the first two pitches and it got progressively easier as I went. However the protection opportunities were pretty scarce most of the way. I arrived at a tree belay and Sabrina soon joined me. She ran up around the corner to the next bit, and I followed. I set a belay and she led the next two pitches as one. These pitches were awkward bits with a few pro opportunities to protect them.

Once arriving at the belay, I poked around the corner to find the start of the North Face Variation. I found it, and Sabrina joined me. It was steeper than I imagined, but was completely doable by our party. I wanted to lead this 5.9 pitch as I wasn't too excited about the other one. But I often get spooked by steep climbing and had to work myself up to it. I took the rack and led off. A few pieces up and I was pumping and down climbed back to the base. I looked at the moves again and gave it another go. An adjustment of my top piece and my mindset, and I was higher and placing another piece. A few moves later I placed another piece and then it was up to a bolt. From the ground it looked as though the climbing got easier at the bolts, by this was untrue. A few moves leftward the climbing eased a bit and I gained the ledge. The remaining portion of the pitch was awesomely exposed climbing up steps on the ledge. It was amazing how quickly the gully floor dropped away after the short steep section. I belayed Sabrina up enjoying Ravens flying below me and the tops of trees down in the South Gully.

Since she was leading the next 5.9 pitch, I led the short bit to the tree and brought her over. I laughed when I saw the gaping maw that was the next pitch. She joined me and was startled by the look of it. She expressed her concern about leading it. I told her I would if she wanted me to. She did. We reflaked the rope and I headed off. This was supposedly the last 5th class pitch before reaching the top, but it was a considerable looking obstacle between us and the easier ground. I placed a nut and made the mantle move into the bottom of the scoop. I got a small suspect cam in between flakes near my feet and then entered the hole to place a blue alien in the back. I made a few moves and then placed a cam higher. I climbed back down as I was getting pumped and not unlocking the problem. I went up again with a better strategy and got higher, placing yet another cam in the deep back. I found a pocket in the back for a finger and I used holds on the arete with my right hand and foot. But trying to chimney the moves was proving difficult for me at best.

Was I in too deep? Were my long legs not suitable for the size of the crack? I felt I had to succeed as to not spend the night on the ledge. I moved up and was able to place the #1 cam listed on the topo. I was now in reach of the flake on the wall and grabbed it with my left hand. Now I had to turn my hip toward the wall. What to do with my right hand? I grabbed the draw, adjusted my feet and then grabbed the top of the flake and pulled myself up into an awkward stance on the next ledge. From there I placed a cam before continuing to a tree belay. Sabrina had no issues climbing the pitch and joined me on the ledge where we tried to figure out where the scramble ledges were supposed to go. Nothing looked like ropeless terrain to us, so Sabrina led out on the pitches at least attached to the mountain. Zig-zaging up the ledges she couldn't place any pro and stopped at tree. I came up and for some reason left without the rack on a perfectly protectable ramp that led to 2nd/3rd class terrain.

Once Sabrina joined me we put away the rope. A short 3rd class scramble got us to some easy slabs where we stopped to enjoy the view and have some snacks. Now the task was to find the tourist trail down. We poked around on slabs a bit before attaining the trail. Sabrina led us onto an exposed trail that went down a needly ramp. I didn't want to go and told her I thought the best way to go down was to go up. I liked a short gully heading up and went back to climb it. She reluctantly followed. Near the top of the gully was some third class moves with some rebar in the rock via ferrata style. After topping out of the gully we were on the summit area and I proceeded to the top while Sabrina scouted the descent.


It was nice to finally be on the summit and in direct sun for the first time all day. We chatted a bit with a "reporter" who said she was interviewing Sonnie Trotter about the route. Then it was off down the trail. The trail down was enjoyable. Plenty of stairs, a few ladders and chains and some nice trees. The most beautiful thing about it is that it deposited us right at camp, and our car so we could drink fluids and start making dinner.

This was a great trip. We didn't accomplish as much as we were hoping, but what we did accomplish was great fun. I was glad to be out on what may be my only multi day trip of the year.

The rest of the pics are here.

Leavenworth - Fish Wall - 04.30.11

I finally got the opportunity to go out for the first time since Mirabelle was born. There were multiple people coming, but in the end it was just Sabrina, Justin and myself.

On the way out we all decided on Fish Wall and the Duty Dome area as a place to be for the day. We were looking for moderate single pitch routes with the possibility of doing some multi pitch endeavours. When we arrived in the Icicle around 9am, we missed the pull out for Duty Dome and parked at Icicle Buttress and walked the short distance back down the road to the trail. It was still quite cold, although it was 50° out according to the car. In what seemed like no time, we were already at Fish Wall and figuring out what to climb.

We set our gear down by the far left route and looked around. I peeked at the book and announced that I would lead the far left route. (Sardine Routine) Justin and Sabrina poked around a bit and eventually Sabrina started belaying Justin up a bolted route, Crab Cakes 5.8+. The sun had not yet crept around the crag, and we were all quite chilly. Especially Justin who had to hold the cold rock while on lead. After his lead, Sabrina and I followed. I found the route to awkward, but I am not sure if that was the cold temps or because I was on rock for the first time in six months. The sun did finally start making an appearance when I topped out, although the last few cracks on the pitch were quite cold.

Justin, two clips up on Crab Cakes

We left the anchor up, so we could top rope the next route over, Virgin Sturgeon 5.8+. This route has two stars, and Justin wanted to get a feel for it on top rope before tackling it on lead. He was the first up and had some minor difficulties near the crux when climbing it. Sabrina went next and took a more direct line at the crux which appeared easier. I followed and found the route much nicer and more enjoyable than the previous. It was a route worth doing again. I guess that is the difference between one and two star routes. Justin and Sabrina then both led the route before Sabrina pulled the anchor.

Justin leading Virgin Sturgeon

I then geared up to lead Sardine Routine. A shorter route than the previous two with a combination of bolts and gear protecting it. It was enjoyable and had thin moves on the steepest section for the crux. Justin followed and Sabrina cleaned the anchor after her climb. We then started scouting the book for our next objective.

Yours truly starting up Sardine Routine (photo by Sabrina)

We opted to head to the right side slabs of Duty Dome. Justin was interested in climbing Kitty Corner 5.9+. We hiked up a few minutes to get to the route where we encountered another party gearing up for Straight Street, a three star route next to Kitty Corner, at only two stars. Justin geared up and I belayed him for the route. He warned me when he left the ground that he may need to take on a piece. This happened two or three times on his way up. The last piece he took on and then started to climb above it. He was a bit above it when I saw his feet scrambling for traction. I prepared to catch his fall and he started falling, yelling it as he finally broke from the rock. In what seemed immediate, he was on his back on the rock, with his head pointing toward the bottom of the slab. We asked if he was OK, and responded affirmatively. He stood up and collected himself while hanging for a bit.

Justin nearing his high point of Kitty Corner (photo by Sabrina)

He started to climb again, but I promptly stopped him because I could not take the rope in. I told him I thought the rope was stuck, and sure enough it was. He opted to build and anchor and tie into it while Sabrina and I started a rescue. Once in his anchor, I took him off belay, and Sabrina tied the it off to a tree as an added precaution while I got ready to lead the adjacent route. Then Sabrina belayed me up Straight Street so that we could get Justin down. When I arrived at the height Justin was at we worked out a plan for me to continue to the top anchor on Kitty Corner and then have Sabrina follow me. Sabrina would clean Straight Street and then I would lower her to Justin so she could clean Kitty Corner. I continued to the top of Straight Street. Possibly due to the now lack of sun on the route and the heightened adrenaline, I did not find Straight Street too enjoyable. Also, I was expecting it to be more friction, but it was more of an edging on slabs route.

I got to the top and Sabrina followed. She stopped half way to deliver Justin his down jacket so he could stay warmer. Once at the top, I explained to her what we would do and I prepared to lower her. She cleaned the route and was soon on the ground. Justin pulled up the rope and tied into the end and then I prepared to lower him. Once he was on the ground, I set up a rappel and took out the remaining high cam that he fell on, and proceeded to extricate the rope. This took a few pulls outward and a couple of different stances. I was a bit nervous because I felt that when it popped from the crack that I would spiral out of control even though I had done a leg wrap and autoblock to backup my rappel. Once freed, I threw the rope down and continued to the ground where we all decided that we had had enough for the day.

I was really happy to be out, and I felt I climbed pretty well for my first time on real rock in months. Our mini rescue training was nice practice and it was fortunate that we had brought a second rope along. After dropping Justin off Sabrina and I discussed some other options that we did not pursue in the rescue. I told her since Justin was conscious and communicating, that I was going to do whatever made him feel most comfortable. And I think that worked out pretty well for all of us.

New Year's Nordic - 12.31.10-01.01.11

We planned on a weekend of track skiing this weekend as Jennifer was told not to do the Polar Bear Plunge by the doctor. A bummer, because it was actually cold out on New Year's Day.

I went out Friday with Sabrina and Anne to help Anne learn to ski. She told me she watched a lot of videos on YouTube and then tried it for the first time last week. Sabrina and I tried to help her by imparting the knowledge we had to give her a better time.

We went out to Cabin Creek. I'm not sure how cold it was there, but it was 20° in Seattle when we left in the morning. I ended up wearing my puffy coat for most of the time out only taking it off for a few of the longer uphills. (And then promptly freezing on the downhills that followed.)

Anne learning to snowplow under beautiful skies

We did the normal full course without the Mount Ozibaldy loop. We got there a little after 9am and appeared to have the place to ourselves. That allowed us to stop frequently and give Anne pointers and instruction at the tops and bottoms of all the hills. Near the end of our loop we started to notice a few people.

Now it was crowded. Sabrina and I talked Anne into another short lap and then we went back to the car. Anne seemed satisfied with the day and Sabrina and I were impressed with her improvement being on skis for only the second time.

Sabrina and Anne coming up a hill

On New Year's Day Amy and Jennifer were joining us and we were heading to the flat Hyak Sno Park. Our day started well enough and Sabrina and I raced ahead trying different techniques to acquire speed. We stopped as I warmed up so I could remove my puffy coat.

While we waited for Amy and Jennifer to catch up we practiced standing (kick?) turns. Shortly after starting up again I almost fell when my ski came off. A woman skating by stated something like "what a freak accident." Everyone caught up to me and asked what was up. I told them my ski came off. But when I went to put it back on I realized the binding was missing a piece. We spent about ten minutes looking for it before Sabrina found it already buried in the snow in the bottom of the track. I attempted to repair the binding, but realized that I couldn't and resolved to walking back to the parking lot. Jennifer and I parted ways with the rest of our party, but not before Sabrina gave me the advice of standing on the ski with the broken binding.

Jennifer and I skied back to the parking lot. At first I just shuffled my feet not wanting to have the ski and my foot separate. Then I started varying my technique between a left foot kick and double pole glide and a shorter stride where kicking with my right foot meant pressing down on the ski to keep my foot in contact with it. At one point I was doing so well I had wished I continued further. But passing was quite difficult as I realized when I got near the parking lot and had to wait for a young boy who kept falling. Trying to pass would have meant stepping out of the lane, picking up my ski and then running past the person in front of me far enough to get back in the track and sort myself out. Hopefully this does not put an end to my Nordic season.

Happy New Year!

Leavenworth - Pearly Gates - 08.08.10

The weather wasn't cooperating for alpine plans, so I stayed in town on Saturday in the rain. Rod and I were working out options and when Sabrina called Saturday night the plan was set to head to Leavenworth. It had rained there too on Saturday, but was forecast to be warm and sunny on Sunday, unlike the west side.

We left Seattle around 6am giving the sun time to dry things out if needed. We opted for the Pearly Gates due to the shade it receives. We parked outside the Snow Creek parking lot, and hiked up. This time I had no issues with the log crossings, and did both of them standing up and walking. Perhaps that little amount of time on the slack line last week really helped out?

The hike up was hot, steep, and long. We arrived at the base of the crag soaked. But now we were in the shade and cooling off. What a relief. We started slowly with Sabrina leading The Dog ate My Topo. It had some bouldery moves at the start, and felt stiff for the rating. Thin holds and slabby climbing for most of it. It was a two star route, but I didn't like it that much. Perhaps the rust of me not climbing rock too much lately is beginning to show?

Once all three of us were on top, we scrambled to the base of the second pitch of Milky Way. Rod led it and fell once or twice at the crux, combined with a fair amount of hanging. Once through, he brought up me and Sabrina. I really enjoyed this route more than the first one, and loved the friction crux. We rapped off and contemplated The Scene is Clean, but I did not feel up to leading it with the first bolt high, and a hollow flake to climb below it. So we rapped to the base.

It was already 1pm so we had a lunch and a big break before tackling something else. We looked through the book and Sabrina and I scouted Loaves of Fun. I decided I would give it a go. It is a blocky affair with good rests. However, I was rarely super comfortable with the gear. So I tended to place gear at every good rest and sewed it up a bit. There was a cruxy bit that I took a long time on due to not feeling great about my right foot options. (The rope was running in an area where I wanted to place my foot, and I just didn't like that place that much anyway.) After a long time in the spot, I managed a good right foot and made some moves higher, placing another cam along the way. The last bit of the crack system goes up a corner with a nice horn on top as a hold. I did some fun moves out around the corner, and then gained the slab which finishes the route. I brought up Sabrina and Rod, and we rapped off. Most raps here are exactly 30m and this was no exception.

We went over to Cloud Nine for Rod to lead, but he wasn't feeling sure of his crack skills. So he backed off. It was after 4pm, and I wasn't really up to another 5.8 gear lead, so we decided to call it a day.

The hike out was much dustier than in the morning, and I once again had no issues with the log crossings. I didn't feel so great about my climbing in this outing, but I haven't been out cragging in a while so I guess that is to be expected.

My pics are here.

Three O' Clock Rock - Silent Running - 07.11.10

I offered to go out with Sabrina for her 40th birthday to Darrington. We chose Three O' Clock Rock as it had the shortest approach and felt Silent Running was a good route for the day. Sabrina invited her friend Jayshree to come along who had never been to any of the Darrington crags.

We left Seattle around 6am and made a final stop in the Darrington gas station before driving up the forest road to the trail head where two cars were parked. A casual gearing up and we made the walk up to Three O' Clock Rock to find no other parties there. We were now in the sunlight, and it was quite hot. We discussed who would lead what pitches, and Sabrina set about leading the first pitch.

At the top of the pitch we retied so Sabrina was in the middle and I headed off on the next pitch. It started out smoothly but was a bit cruxy near the end of pitch with some more difficult moves. It ended on a comfortable ledge where I sat to belay them up. Jayshree took the next lead which was a pitch I really enjoyed. One of the guide books calls it "the...pitch defines the character of D-Town slab dancing at its best." The lower two thirds of the pitch is all friction with palms and smears before reaching some small flakes before the belay. It was wonderfully fun and I cruised up it on top rope. A completely different experience form last year where I felt it was slippery.

Sabrina led out on the next pitch which is the pitch I got off route on last year. I told her to trust the line and the hidden fixed pin would reveal itself. She was hesitant to enter the run out, but did and found the pin and continued through the easier run out to the final corner and the anchor. She brought us up. It was fun to climb this pitch correctly as there was a large easy section of chicken heads midway through the pitch that was fun climbing. Clouds rolled in around this time and cooled things off a bit.

Upon arriving at the belay, I quickly racked up and headed out on the next pitch. This pitch was fairly nondescript and easier than I remembered it from last year. I cruised up it feeling it was much easier than the 5.8 rating it holds. There was some run out near the top, but on easier ground. I brought the women up and Jayshree got the next lead which I previously felt was the star pitch of the route. She led the pitch confidently and brought Sabrina and I up. The bolts on this pitch were closer spaced than I remembered them, but probably due to the fact that I was leading it last year. The belay stance was not large and I got moving quickly to lead the final(bonus) pitch.

This time on lead, I found it easier to surmount the overlaps/roofs that are the prominent features of the lower part of the pitch. I kept telling myself that the crux was at the last bolt on the slab where Steve had to take last year. I knew it was important to save my feet on the way there, so I could work it quickly and get through it. After the overlaps, I took rests on prominent ledges before tackling a small corner and heading out onto the crux slab. (The "Weekend Rock" guide book claims the final corner to be the crux, but I do not think so.) The slab is fairly steep there and lacks the undulations of previous pitches. I moved up and clipped the one bolt. A few moves higher and I was able to reach out right to the final bolt and clipped it. Then I moved up and found myself lacking a direction to continue. As I tried to figure out what to do, I fell. It was somewhat unexpected. I felt like a time bomb ticking right before the fall. I also have a vague recollection of about to yell something to the belay, which caused me to yell "falling" a little late. The fall was uneventful, as I just ran down the slab backward. I hung briefly to rest my feet and then got back on the horse. This time I took a line farther to the right and closer to the final bolt which seemed to have the friction I needed to gain the big flake and breathe a sign of relief. I tried desperately to place a nut, and got a halfway decent placement before moving up the final fun corner where I placed two more pieces as I wasn't confident about the nut or felt 100% about the cams either. After that I was at the tiny quartz dike ledge that was the final belay.

I brought Sabrina up. She stumbled a few times in the area I fell and then pushed through the moves as my nut placement popped. She joined me at the small stance and belayed Jayshree up. While none of us thought the beginning overlaps were the cruxes, Jayshree felt fine with that slab and felt the crux was a touch lower near the previous corner.

We began our raps, and the parties below us on route were kind enough to either get off route, or wait for us to join them at larger stations. Rapping went fairly smoothly, and Sabrina and Jayshree even simul rapped the final pitch.

I really enjoy this route. This time, I enjoyed the third and final pitches the most. I really need to come back and lead the third pitch as it is the only difficult pitch I have not led on this route. We brought a rack with us, and used at least one piece on every pitch with the final pitch taking the most gear (3-5 pieces.) No need for a #4 on the pitch, and aliens were the real stars. I think I would not bring nuts in the future as they are too difficult to place in most spots on this route. It was also fun having three, as it gave us more relax time, and negated the need for carrying a second rope.

My pics are here.
Sabrina's pics here.

City of Rocks - 06.17-21.10

Sabrina invited me to join her, Anne and Rod for a long weekend in City of Rocks. Contrary to what I previously believed, the area got its name from early gold rush settlers on the California Trail who thought the area looked like a city made of rocks. They left their marks on the rocks in axle grease, some of which can still be seen today. City of rocks is also known geologically as having the oldest exposed rock on the continent of North America with rock up to 2.5 billion years old. The area is a national park preserve, which means it is still used for ranching and hunting, as well as preserving the historical features of the area. Unfortunately for climbers, that means not being able to climb on the Twin Sisters formation due to view preservation.

The drive into Southeast Idaho was around twelve hours, a mere three hours from Salt Lake City. We left rainy Seattle and eventually arrived to the clear warm skies of the high (6000') desert. We drove around "The City" before exiting to our campground at Smoky Mountain. Advantages to camping at Smoky Mountain include showers, flush toilets, and readily available water. Disadvantages are that it has no views and is RV friendly. Camping in The City has better views, and closer climbing, but lacks easy access to water, or bathrooms. Either way, make reservations in advance.

Day 1:
We headed to Window Rock to get in some easier leads to get a feel for the place. After some trail wandering, we located the east side of the rock. Sabrina started on the one star Summit Route (5.5) while Rod led up Good Times (5.6**). The climbing proved fairly easy, and soon we were all on top. The summit was wonderful. There were a few pools with brine shrimp in them, and we gawked at the views from up top. Soon we were scrambling back to the top of Summit Route to rap off with a single 60m rope.

We hiked back to the van, and drove to Elephant Rock where there were numerous routes we were looking to get on. I balked at the idea of leading Rye Crisp (5.8****), and decided to lead Wheat Thin (5.7***) instead. This route started easily and didn't really ever get too difficult. The guide warned of protecting the crux, but I'm not entirely sure I know where that was. I had a mental crux a little more than halfway when the climbing was getting steeper, and I had to commit to the section above me. For me, the climb finished with some run out face climbing. While I was bringing Rod up, Anne had led The Pygmies got Stoned (5.10a***) and Sabrina top roped it. Rod and I explored the nice views from the summit, and then got a lift on someone's 70m rope to the ground. I top roped Pygmies (with a fall) to clean the anchor, and we were done with Elephant Rock for the day.

We decided to finish the day with Theatre of Shadows, a 5.7, three star bolted four pitch route. To get there we drove up to the Circle Creek Overlook. There was a well defined trail that within and hour brought us under Steinfell's Dome before reaching Jackson's Thumb, a spire to the left of the dome.

Sabrina and Anne went first, and I was hot on their tales for the first pitch. The climbing was fairly easy and got easier as you got near the top. We climbed fast as we had started the route after 4pm. We all topped out in about an hour and a half. We opted to rappel the route, as we were not sure about the back side descent, and it would give Anne and Sabrina some rappel practice before their Infinite Bliss attempt. After about an hour and a half of rapping, we were all back on the ground hiking out, then driving back to camp to prep and eat dinner.

Day 2:
With little planning at dinner or breakfast, we bounced around in the morning attempting to find a location in the shade with multiple desirable routes. It would be helpful if there was no lines. Since it was after 9am, the shade was cool, and almost cool enough to want sun. After a brief stop to take a look at Scream Cheese and see a line up under it we got back in the car and attempted to find the trail head for Flame Rock. After locating the trail head we had to find some parking and parked about 50m away. The hike in was interesting because it went into the shaded valley forest in the center of rocks much different than the sagebrush outside the rocks. There is a creek there, and it was comfortable hiking in the shade of aspens, pines and junipers. We arrived at Bumblie Rock to see a father/daughter combo finishing up Too Much Fun (5.8***). We got in line. Anne went to quickly check out New York is not the City (5.10a***) which had a longer line.

Rod led up Too Much Fun and I followed tagging a rope to set up a top rope. The route was 18 clips, and probably about 38m to the chains. The crux appeared to be at the beginning, but after hauling that rope up the steep route, it was feeling like I was dragging an anvil up the upper portion. Rod and I set up and anchor, and rapped. Anne belayed Sabrina on top rope while Rod went to hold a place for us at New York...

We had good timing, and Anne set about leading New York is not the City. While Rod belayed her, Sabrina and I checked out some other routes nearby, but were not enthusiastic about them. We came back to find Anne pumped out and lowering off of the cruxy moves about a bolt from the finish. Fortunately Rod was able to get on the sharp end and finish the route off. I got the first top rope, and had to hang in two places feeling pretty pumped from the previous route. I'm sort of bummed about this as I should have just fell instead of failing. Sabrina and Anne made quick work of the top rope, and we packed up to move on.

At this time, it was raining ever so lightly. (Nothing was getting wet.) But clouds were rolling in quickly and the sky was getting darker. We thought there might be some thunderstorms in our future. We took this time to check out historical areas of the park and drove around reading signs on the side of the road before stopping at Register Rock and Camp Rock to look at the gold rush graffiti. Then we drove into town to stock up on firewood and talk to the ranger before returning to the park to climb.

We headed back to Elephant Rock where I still wasn't prepared to lead Rye Crisp. This was fine, because Rod was prepared to lead Columbian Crack (5.7****). After our talk with the ranger, we discovered it was no longer on private land. We scouted out the walk off before preparing to climb the route. The first 15' or more is an unprotectable chimney, and we threw a rope over the block that creates the chimney so the leader could be on top rope. Rod led it facing away from the main wall, and eventually climbed on top of the block so he could step across to the main wall. After that, it was slow going as he had to leap frog gear to keep the run out sensible until rounding a corner where the climbing got easier. He brought me up and I found the chimney to be the most difficult part. Although I climbed it facing the wall and never had to do a step across. We then wandered around the slabs finding the least difficult way off the rock. Fortunately Anne and Sabrina were available to help guide us to the spot we had earlier scouted which involved some minor down climbing. After the "walk off," we were done for the day.

Day 3:
I think we made the plan at breakfast to go to Morning Glory Spire to climb Skyline (5.8****). It is usually crowded, and the guide book implies a social affair waiting to get on it. When we showed up, there was no one there and we started gearing up. I got the lead and Rod belayed. There were some interesting moves down low climbing a scalloped hand crack. There was good gear, and some knobs for feet. Once through this section I was on a ledge below a leftward traverse. The guy on the .10b next to us gave me unsolicited advice of placing a .5 Camalot to protect it. But I didn't like to make the move to place the cam as my last piece was out of sight (but probably only three feet below my feet.) I placed a tiny nut to protect placing the cam. Then placed the cam and removed the nut. Then I decided I didn't like the cam too much and fiddled with it a bit. I still didn't like it and took it out and opted to use a gray alien in the same place. Once again I placed the nut to place the cam. I liked the alien placement better, but decided in the end to leave the nut in as well for back up.

Once satisfied with the protection, I stepped up and started the traverse. It is only a few moves of undercling with one of the best holds ever. This is supposed to be the crux of the route, but I found the crux to be ending the traverse and "turning the corner." The moves at the end of the traverse got you to a finger crack, but transitioning from counter pressure to face climbing required a bit of skill. Once I had gained the crack I quickly put in a piece and moved up. The crack was thin and required small gear. I followed it until the end, and then got out on the face for some sparsely protected climbing to the top. It was a lot of fun. I then brought Rod up, and Anne pink pointed on my gear and then Sabrina joined us.

There was still no one waiting to get on the route. We set up a double rope rappel, and rapped to the base, where our knot got stuck when trying to pull the ropes. After a bit of rope swinging Rod and I pulled together and freed the ropes. We then sat on a rock eating lunch while watching a guy climb the classic 5.11c Crack of Doom. After lunch we hiked back to the car.

We drove back out to the overlook to hike out to Lost Arrow Spire. The book states it is a 3/4 mile hike, but it felt a bit longer, perhaps a full mile. It was early afternoon, and the hike is mostly treeless through the sagebrush and was quite hot. Trees started appearing as we got closer to the spire, and by the time we were at the base, it was downright cool with a breeze blowing in the shade.

Once again, Rod and I would climb and Sabrina and Anne would climb. But while Rod was leading the first pitch, Anne's stomach was acting up and she decided to sit this one out. That made me the monkey in the middle and I hauled a rope up so Sabrina could follow. Rod led the first pitch competently but slowly. I followed, but not much faster and then we brought Sabrina up.

I was to lead the second pitch which has a short traverse and then huge run out (25'+) up a slab to the summit. I led out placing a few pieces before arriving at the corner. At the corner I looked up and noticed the lack of protection anywhere and the step around the arete I had to make to complete the pitch. I balked, and then climbed back to the anchor. I took a breather and gave it another try. This time I was able to place a #1 stopper in a small crack above my head, protecting the move out onto the face. But my thoughts were clouded. All I could think of was falling, and the anchor blowing and the three of us plummeting to our deaths while I was screaming "Tell Jennifer I love her!" So I once again climbed back to the anchor and asked if Rod would give it a go.

We switched our ends of the rope and Rod headed out. I gave him the rack and slings, but this was "just in case" there could be pro. There wasn't, but that didn't stop Rod. He climbed up the arete a bit before stepping out onto the face and speeding his way to the top. On top rope, it still felt a bit unnerving, but I got to the corner and up I went. Sabrina soon joined us. After a few summit pictures it was time to rappel off the other side. Since the guide book was really unclear, we did a double rope rappel. It is a sit and spin start that goes to semi-free-hanging most of the way down. Big Rod went first and was quickly down. I had a touch of difficulty getting the spin right, but was soon rapping and on the ground. Sabrina followed. Once back on the ground I kept saying things like "I'm never going up there again." Truth is, I'd probably do it the next time I go back. One of those "type 2" fun situations. Our hike out was our last of the trip and we headed back to camp for our final dinner. We did make an attempt to go to the hot springs, but found out they were not open on Sunday.

Overall, this was a wonderful trip. It was not a place I was looking to go to, but didn't want to skip out on the opportunity. We had a lot of fun and climbed some really nice routes. This is what we learned:

Things to know:
-The guidebook is a bit sparse (beta is not great)
-It can be hot, find shade
-About 90% single pitch climbing/75% trad
-Pitches are long (bring a 70 or 80m rope, or double 60s)
-Pitches are long (bring a double rack to avoid run out or leapfrogging)
-Clouds/wind seem to roll in most afternoons, they may bring precip
-Getting off some rocks requires 5th class walk offs or sketchy exposed trips to the rap anchors that need more than a single 60m rope
-Compared to Leavenworth, routes felt steep for difficulty
-The two 5.10a clip ups we did felt stiff
-Cruxes usually at bottoms of routes
-Some run out common on gear routes
-Plenty of 5.6-5.8 two to four star routes
-Elevation is above 6000' so don't be surprised if you are huffing and puffing on a trivial approach

Rock was amazing and had wild holds on many faces. Didn't feel a need to tape up for cracks, but due to holds on the face, not a huge need to jam cracks either. Rock always felt damp in the morning which may be due to condensation overnight. We had swimsuits for the hot springs, but found out they are only open Wed-Sat, so we were unable to participate in that activity.

My pics are here.
Sabrina's pics here.
Anne's pics here.

Leavenworth - 04.18.10

Sabrina and I had originally planned a full weekend of climbing, hopefully in Squamish. But as the date neared, the weather was set not to cooperate. We scaled back our grand scheme to one day in Leavenworth with the better weather. (Forecast was 73°F and mostly sunny.)

Our goal was to climb Heart of Gold (5.10-) and link it with Prime Rib (5.10b). I had roughly done this combo with Steve last year, but were rained off of Prime Rib. I also got us off route on Heart of Gold and we never climbed the third pitch of it.

We arrived in Leavenworth around 7:30am and it was still in the 30°s. So we stopped by and hassled some friends we saw in the Snow Creek parking lot before driving up to Duty Dome. It was getting warmer and as we hiked to the base of the route. We had a little difficulty determining which start we wanted, and I opted for the direct start. (The "cheat start" as called in the book involves coming in from the left on a ledge system. But it puts the first bolt at your feet making clipping it a strange scenario. Or you could run it out to the second bolt and risk a nasty fall.) The direct start goes up some flakes and cracks for about eight feet before you are near the first bolt. I had difficulty with the moves and it messed with my head, unfortunately setting the tone for the rest of the day. After numerous balks I finally made a committing move that would allow me to place gear in an overlap that would keep me off the deck if I fell. I then placed one more piece before getting to the first bolt.

After that the next two bolts are on a rightward traverse and kept my head spinning until the route started progressing in a more upward fashion. Once above the initial section, the pitch is thin slab/friction moves all the way to the chains. I arrived and started to chill in the wind as I brought Sabrina up. We discussed the next pitch and she was off. Shortly after she went out of sight she exclaimed she saw chains, which were actually below her. (So it is sort of a downward traversing pitch.) Once there she brought me over.

While I am not sure where the actual crux of the pitch is, I am sure it was within the first three bolts. Sabrina would say it was between the second and third bolt as she fell in that area. (But possibly due to the fact she was a little to the left of the route.) The route steps steeply rightward off the belay and then heads up relatively straight to the next anchor. The first bolt was about six feet to the right of the anchor. Rather than traverse out there, I put a draw on the anchor and reached out to clip the first bolt and then clip the rope to it. This may have proved to be an unnecessary step because as I went to lead the route, I down climbed a few moves giving me a top rope advantage even if I did not clip the first bolt. Those first moves went smoothly and soon I was finding my way up the slab. Sometimes there were nice little pockets, other times it was palms or tiny crimping holds. Closer to the top of the pitch the difficulty eased back considerably as many crack like features started to appear. This was a nice slab pitch that rivals those found in Darrington. I brought Sabrina up and she mentally prepared for her lead.

I didn't remember any of the final pitch of the route from last year. We could see to the first bolt and the moves looked relatively easy to get there. But minimal protection would be found between the belay and the bolt looming a dozen feet above us. Sabrina got at least one cam in before getting up to clip the bolt and gazing in wonder at the next group of thin moves to reach the next bolts. After some contemplation she disappeared out of sight (and sound.) She brought me up the final pitch and we did a walk off from the anchor which was maybe 3rd class slabs with some exposure.

We sat and had a snack. Since neither of us had brought a summit pack, we were a bit thirsty and contemplating the Prime Rib route. Both of our nerves were a bit frayed from climbing Heart of Gold, and we weren't sure we could tackle Prime Rib. I looked at the first bit (a dirty wide crack) and could see the moves. I decided to give it a go. Two pieces up and I was struggling to make my next move up. The footholds I thought I would use when viewing the route forced me away from the crack and made my position awkward. I had also placed a cam in the crack which used up a valuable jam location. I moved the cam around to see it having that location for my hand would make things better, and it didn't. So I told Sabrina I was done with this route and let's head back to the packs where we could drink and contemplate our next moves.

The walk off Duty Dome is a somewhat miserable scramble down wet mossy ramps avoiding going over a waterfall. It was exposed and took us a fair amount of time to get back to the packs. As we proceeded lower, the temperature seemed to soar. We arrived hot and sweating back at the packs as we contemplated our next move. We discussed doing one of the two 5.7 3-pitch routes on Duty Dome but then decided to head to Keen Acres where we saw some people climbing on our descent. No route was harder than 5.9, and they were all low commitment single pitch slabs.

Once over there, I decided to climb the namesake route (and the hardest on the crag at 5.9.) It had a 5.9 crack on the slab. How hard could that be compared to a 5.10 slab? I made my way up the route, but heavily protected it because of my nerves. The crack section proved difficult with tiny finger locks. It was somewhat difficult to protect as well, making me wish for my new nuts. Above that section there were a few more bolts before the chains. I brought Sabrina up and we rapped down, making two raps from the 125' perch.

We discussed the possibility of climbing one final route on the left side. It was a 5.7 (Kilt Lifter) and we figured that it would be a good cool down. Sabrina convinced herself that she could lead it (which was good, because I may not have been able to.) Interestingly the route starts with a roof to gain the slab. While the first moves are not too difficult after a few attempts, Sabrina still couldn't get a good stance to clip the first bolt above the roof. I went up and clipped it, and then she pink pointed to the first bolt and proceeded to tackle the slab. This route was fun, but had the rare option of exposure on the slab. This is because this is the leftmost route before the rock falls away about 15'. This added a little mental difficulty to what might have been an easier route. There was a nice hand crack about halfway up, but I climbed it to the right to stay away from the exposure? Why? I guess that is just how the mind works.

Once at the top, we were both spent. We rapped to the packs and had an unpleasant hike down the gully before reaching the car.

I would highly recommend climbing Heart of Gold to anyone climbing at that level. I was hoping that the "easier" routes on Keen Acres would be recommendable to people I know, but I felt they were fairly difficult. Perhaps heading out with a fresh mind my opinions would have turned out differently. Sabrina and I discussed in the ride home how starting with the awkward, not well protected moves at the beginning of the day really sets the tone mentally for the climbing. I need to be aware of that in the future and climb a warm up route before getting on a route that starts like that.

My pics are here.

Mount Erie - 02.06.10

The original plan was to head to the desert for some climbing. But in a strange twist the weather was forecast to be better west of the mountains. So Sabrina and I changed our plans and headed to Mount Erie. The hope was to clip some bolts and maybe do a little top roping. We left Seattle around 7am and arrived near the top of Mount Erie around 8:45.

We were attempting to access the Powerline Crag and had some minor difficulty determining where to park. (Thankfully we brought two guidebooks with us.) Then we headed out on the trail in an attempt to find the crag. In typically Mount Erie fashion, we hiked too far over some sketchy terrain. We were only about 20' above a trail that looked level and should lead us back to the crag, but could not find a way down. We hiked back and eventually found the crag and our starting point for the day, False Impressions (5.8).

It was a bit chilly and Sabrina and I procrastinated before I decided to do the first lead. By this time, a man and a woman arrived and started on the route immediately to the right of False Impressions. I balked at the high first bolt and committing step out onto the route and handed the lead over to Sabrina. She balked a bit before she got going and she was on her way. She made her way smoothly through the first four bolts and then hung because of the pump of figuring out the next move. After getting back on the wall, she made quick work of the rest of the route. I followed the route, and found it more difficult than I probably would have on lead. I also took a direct start which eliminates the committing step out, but it means you are climbing for 10-12' before reaching the first bolt. Sabrina climbed it again on top rope and found it more difficult to follow as well.

Sabrina cleaning the anchors on False Impressions

A crowd had gathered by this point and there were now six other people in the area besides ourselves. So Sabrina and I headed to the east end of the crag to climb a few more bolted routes. This involved a scramble up to a ledge system which was somewhat precarious. Fortunately there was an anchor bolt that we anchored into as well as secured our backpacks to. One of the other parties also came up to the ledge and we negotiated routes.

I led the 5.8 Finishing Touch which I found easier than False Impressions. (Perhaps why one guidebook lists it as a 5.7+?) It was less steep and had some thin balance moves. Sabrina led it after me and found it more difficult. I followed her lead and we did an ill advised walk off to climber's right to get back. (We were using a natural anchor and the only rap anchor was being used by the other party.)

Sabrina on Finishing Touch

After our walking excursion, we set our sights on No Holds Barred (5.10a). I got the first lead and cruised up the easy section at the bottom to the second bolt. I paused for a long time attempting to unlock the moves above me all while my legs were getting pumped. I finally hung and attempted again. It wasn't working. I lowered off and rested my legs and then had back at it. This time I was successful as I had made a plan from the ground. I then fell repeatedly trying to figure out the next set of moves. Part of my issue was that I had not seen a critical hold for my right hand that was near the fourth bolt. After finding the hold I was able to move up and complete the route. Sabrina led it after me and had a short fall at one point and hung a bit at another point before completing the route. I tried it again on top rope without any issues.

Sabrina climbing No Holds Barred

At this point we contemplated what to do next. We knew we had to leave the immediate vicinity as there were no climbs left for us to do. Where we started in the morning had become crowded, and that was no longer an option either. So we were going to have to scramble down from the ledge to walk up and out. I decided that we should put our packs on and climb Finishing Touch again so we would be at the trail. Sabrina agreed if I would lead it. So I did. In the mid afternoon after a bit of climbing, the pack really affected my ability to climb. It made the 5.8 feel harder than the .10a we had just climbed. Near the top I avoided the crux of the route by traversing over to the final moves of No Holds Barred. I anchored to a tree and brought Sabrina up.

We debated briefly about going to another location to climb but Sabrina suggested we relax and enjoy the view. Being fairly tired and knowing the difficulties of getting to another crag on Erie, I agreed and we sat a bit on an outcropping enjoying the day before returning to the car to go home.

Glacier, Whitehorse and Three Fingers

Overall this was a great trip. It was nice to get out with Sabrina who I had been missing going out with. While the forecast was for "mostly cloudy" the day went from cold and overcast to sunny and warm. Short sleeves weather in the afternoon was welcomed by all. I felt I climbed well enough, but was hoping to climb better. I enjoyed all the routes we did, and would probably recommend them to others.

Mount Thompson - West Ridge - 08.29.09

Sabrina and I finally got to go out together this summer. This is one we had on the list for last summer and never coordinated to make it happen. But now we were going to make it happen.

The forecast was for morning showers tapering to sun. I guess with all my good weather this summer, I didn't even consider a possibility of getting rained out. I did not check weather alternatives anywhere else and only checked the weather for the Snoqualmie Pass area. When I arrived at her house in the morning, her husband asked what our alternate plan was. "Alternate plan?" we said to each other. We got down to discussing that in the car. Sabrina said she brought along the Leavenworth climbing book in case we decided to go there. Of course, mostly we just caught up while chatting in the car. Before we knew it, we were at the pass and pulling in the parking lot.

It was raining in Seattle, and about 50% of the places along the way, but was just foggy and misty at the trailhead. We agreed to do some discussion while in the parking lot and planned to have a decision by 6:30am. I told Sabrina that the decision was hard because we are not gamblers. I then said let's put this discussion in different terms, like possible outcomes. So here is the list I presented that we made our final decision on:
(In order of best payoff outcome to lowest payoff.)
1. Hike in and climb Mt. Thompson
2. Drive to Leavenworth and go cragging
3. Hike in and not climb Mt. Thompson
4. Drive to Leavenworth and it is raining

It is a simplified list that eliminated other options such as driving to Vantage to crag, or driving over to Ingall's to climb the east ridge. Because in reality we weren't too fond of those options. We didn't know the weather forecast for Leavenworth and so rain in Leavenworth was a possibility. So after presenting the choices this way, we stuck with our original intent and hoped that the forecast for the day was correct.

Under foggy skies, we set off into the woods around 6:45am. We made good time. At one point before the Commonwealth Basin turn off, I put on a shell jacket over my t-shirt as the wetness and sweat was keep me cool. We stopped a few times for snacks and short breaks. In two and a half hours we were at the Kendall Katwalk. We continued further and soon were at Ledge Lake. At that point there are way trails in all directions. We confirmed with the map that we were supposed to continue on the right (east) of the ridge to get to Bumblebee Pass. (Although there is an alternate approach that goes to the west of the ridge it was a little too foggy to deviate.)

After some more hiking Sabrina stated she thought we went too far. I told her she was just being impatient. Then we hit a small "pass" near the trail. It was too steep on the other side, and we were too far being able to see Edds Lake. We had to hike back about ten minutes before finding Bumblebee Pass. It was not particularly obvious, but noticeable. Our problem was we were expecting the pass to be much closer to the trail level, and not a vege belay scramble up from the trail. At this point the fog appeared to be lifting. We had nice views of Alaska Lake but the upper reaches were still in the clouds. We grunted up Bumblebee Pass and then carefully picked out way through the loose rock on the other side.

We headed for a trail we could see in the bowl between us and Thompson. Since we had little or no visibility higher than the floor of the basin, we headed for the trail. Once near the bottom we made our way to the right of a tower that we thought was the first on the ridge. As we ascended the talus, the fog started getting worse again and our visibility was now limited to 75 feet. The talus was horrible, loose and bowling ball sized. Some times you would step and the a swath of rock would start moving from ten feet above you. It was slow going. We came to a rock wall at the top. There was a small gully feature going up and to our left. We went up it a bit to see if we could figure out where we were. It was now 12:30, and there were three possibilities before us. We could continue up the gully to see where it led, we could attempt to scramble the 4th class wall of the gully to possibly get on route, or we could call it a day and head back to the car.

With the dense fog and the not so dry rock, it made sense to turn around. Since we were in a moderately safe spot, we had our "lunch" on a stepped slab at the base of the gully. Then began the tedious task of descending the talus field. Sabrina and I originally intended on taking the alternate way back. But at this point, we were having difficulty even locating the saddle to head that way as the fog was so thick. We realized we'd have to go back up and over Bumblebee Pass and hike out the PCT to return to the car. Once back on the trail, we removed our helmets and headed south.

The funny thing about this trail is that the eight miles in seemed to take no time at all, while the same distance out took what seemed like forever. The sun started poking out as we were traversing below Kendall Peak. (A little late.) By the last few miles Sabrina and I were done. Our legs tired and our feet hurting, all we wanted to do was get into more comfortable shoes and off our feet.

Overall this was a fun trip. We didn't summit, and basically did everything but the rock climb. Had it been a little more clear, or the rock a little more dry I think we would've went for it. Unfortunately after looking at a pic of Thompson on a clear day we realize where we were at and why the talus was probably so difficult. (We were below the peak about two pitches in to the West Ridge route.) Anyway, they say you learn more from the non summits, which usually is true. (Steve and I summited on Forbidden and that was probably one of my biggest learning experiences.) I think it was just nice to catch up with Sabrina and for us to push ourselves in less than ideal conditions. Sure, we didn't summit. We didn't even see the mountain! But it was a good time, and good exercise.

My pics are here.

Alpental - Resort ski - 02.26.09

So, my 50th post shouldn't be about resort skiing. And it should at least have some pictures. Since I've been told trip reports without pictures are like peanut butter without chocolate, I have been trying to include them in each report. However, I did not bring a camera today.

Thanks to generous people, (You know who you are.) or perhaps my own generosity, I was presented earlier this week with two passes to Snoqualmie Summit. When I woke up to two inches of snow on the ground in Seattle this Thursday morning, I knew I had to go up to Alpental.

I arrived shortly after opening and started getting fresh tracks from Chair 1 in the morning. After a few warm up runs, I started riding Chair 2. The snow in the Edelweiss Bowl was knee deep powder. Super enjoyable for most of the runs. Since there was a bit of wind, and it continued to snow during my stay, even runs after Noon still seemed untracked. There were areas of low coverage all over the mountain. On the upper mountain, it was particularly icy after the powder got skied off. After about four hours and 10000'+ of vertical skied, my thighs were burning. I decided to call it quits and head home. It was hard to leave as I was having lots of fun, so I took one last ride up Chair 1. You know it is time to stop skiing when you are losing the strength to turn and stop. It just gets dangerous. The last run down sealed it, and I headed home.

Overall, it was a great day to be out.