The weather hadn't been wet for a few days and Adam and I headed to Mount Erie to get on some rock. The forecast for Anacortes was partly sunny with high around 51°. We opted to climb at the summit wall for the easy access and numerous trad routes.
We started with me leading a 5.6 route, but I had difficulty with the crux, and after a half dozen attempts I backed off and Adam gave it a go. He got through and continued to the anchors. On top rope I got the sequence correct and had no issues with it at all.
We walked back down and I gave a 5.4 a go. (I wanted to lead a route.) It didn't have the best pro opportunities, which made me balk at a few moves near the finish. At least this one I completed on lead. I brought Adam up and we set a top rope for an adjacent 5.8.
This 5.8 was enjoyable, but I had to hang where it got really steep due to weakness in my left hand grip. (I've been doing some brick work this week, and handling bricks with my left hand had taken its toll.) After a brief rest, I finished the steep portion of the route. Adam had more difficulty at a section I found fun and easy, but he did not have to hang and executed the transition to the steep section well.
Adam moved the anchor over to "The Corner" a classic 5.7 route at Erie. We top roped this as well. I found the corner to be a little painful on my left foot, but other wise not technically difficult. Adam (perhaps due to smaller feet) didn't have the same foot issue and felt about the same regarding the route.
We then swung the rope over the nose to climb "The Nose Direct" a .10b/c route that heads right up to a roof and over it. I started up first and found that the red wall below the roof was difficult as well. Since I really just wanted to climb the roof I attempted to bypass this red wall by climbing the crux of the 5.6 that we started the day with. Unfortunately after the crux I was already too high to attempt the roof, and I continued on "The Nose" a 5.8 which leads up the feature on the right side. This short section of climbing was enjoyable and had some hidden holds. It also did not feel as difficult as the 5.8 we had climbed earlier.
After that, we headed home. It was nice to get out on real rock and lead some trad. I was really expecting a better performance from myself. It also once again proves that there is little correlation between climbing at the gym and on real rock. Hopefully I'll be able to get on more rock in the coming weeks.
Fagin's Hike of the Week: Mt. McDonald
1 day ago