Monday, June 2, 2008

Icicle Buttress - May 31

Julie and I took yet another trip to Leavenworth to climb some rock. This time we got in the moderate 'classic' R&D. (Can't believe it was my first time up this route.) There was some slow individuals on the route when we arrived, so we bypassed them by taking the Cocaine Connection variation. Having never done the first pitch of R&D, I don't know how it compares, but the first pitch of Cocaine Connection had an interesting 'roof' move right off the start to gain the slab, then wandered the slab to a belay. The second pitch of CC was more slab to a bolt then 3rd to 4th class climbing to the base of R&D pitch 2.

After an enjoyable climb up R&D, we walked off and decided to try something different. I started to climb The Arch (5.8) but backed off as it was strenuous and I was a bit tired. We settled on Chicken Gully(5.4) which is a horrible route. The first pitch was mossy and dirty as if no one has climbed it. The second pitch was 3rd class ledges which we simul-climbed. The third pitch, which we also simul-climbed had a nice short step (the 5.4?) and on to 2nd and 3rd class ledges to a tree. Julie was done leading for the day, and I wasn't sure what the best way to keep going up was, so we rapped and down climbed Chicken Gully to end the day. Turns out that the Cave Route(5.4) was just around the corner from the tree at the top of the third pitch. Oh well.

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