Leavenworth - 04.11.10

Sal and I headed out to Leavenworth to try to link up The Tree Route with The Stump Route. This link up is new to the new edition Leavenworth guidebook and we wanted to see if it was a worthy option for climbing in the Icicle. I already like The Tree Route for the lie backing in the first pitch and the fun roof and off width in the third pitch.

When we got over Steven's Pass, it was raining and continued to do so as we headed to Leavenworth. By the time we headed up Icicle Road, it was raining harder and the rock was visibly wet. We made the decision to turn around and head to Peshastin where we could see bluer skies to the east.

The purpose of the days climbing was to get Sal more gear leads. Unfortunately there are not a whole lot of options at an easy grade for that in Peshastin. And once we left the parking lot, we found that it was even less true on this day. There were what appeared to be multiple parties on The Tunnel and Diagonal Direct, setting up ropes. Once near the base of Diagonal Direct, a young woman explained that they were setting up ropes for (60) kids who were coming by to earn badges or something. We hiked further hoping to get on the easier routes on Sunset Slab, only to find those occupied by the group as well. We then resorted to climbing Porpoise, a 5.6 gear route on Martian Slab. This is a fun route with an exciting traverse option to the anchors. It was my first time leading it and climbing it in rock shoes since I climbed it in boots about four years ago. After two laps of it (we each led and followed) we packed up and headed back to the Icicle.

Once back we hiked up to the base of the route where we had lunch. The first six feet or so was wet and when I led it I sewed it up for fear of my feet slipping on the wet rock. I felt like I had good traction with my foot in the water, but once I removed it and placed it on dry rock it was very slippery. Sal seemed to think there was no traction in the water. Once around the initial difficulties, I headed up to the base of "the cave." There are two variations on this pitch (that I know of.) The one I have done is on the right and is an awkward corner. The left variation Adam informed me was easier although looks intimidating as it starts with a wide crack/squeeze chimney that cannot accept gear. I had gone up to the base of this without getting any gear in and tried to find a placement before heading up. I was unsuccessful, and even contemplated taking the right side. After a short down climb I found a pocket for a cam and committed myself to the left side.

The climbing was easier than it appeared but somewhat run out in the first section. A small crack on the outside of the chimney granted me my first pro placement of a small cam. After that, there were a few blocks/chock stones in the chimney that I placed a few more cams near. The final moves out were really fun and involved stemming out of the corner to the belay. I brought Sal up and he went on to lead the second pitch.

After a while, Sal brought me up to the belay and we re racked for his lead of the third pitch. This is a pitch I really enjoy, and for the first time was able to follow it. Sal climbed it in fine style and sailed through the remaining off width to the top. I followed the route and did not enjoy the off width crack with my new shoes which seemed to make my feet hurt a bit more. Once at the top we realized we were not going to have enough time to complete The Stump Route in a safe manner. So we made the ten minute hike to the base for future reference.

The hiking above The Tree Route was terrible. Mostly on goat trails that were not well suited for human travel. (Although gathering by the goat tracks, they didn't seem to have an easy time traveling on these trails either.) With lots of slipping and sliding on sandy soil we then attempted to walk back to our packs. When we reached a cliff, we rappelled from a chain anchor. (This turned out to be the right side of the Crack Du Jour crag.) Once down our rappel we noticed we could have scrambled down slightly from the edge and then followed the ledge system to some more 3rd class moves out of a gully and back to sandy walking terrain to the base.

If I was to attempt this link up again I would gear up at the car and carry the rope and summit pack with us so we would not have to return to the base. I'd be inclined to do that even if I was just doing The Tree Route. Overall, a fun day where we got five pitches of climbing in each. Not bad considering all the driving.

My pics are here.

Leavenworth Weekend - 04.18-19.09

I took the Intermediate Students out to Castle Rock for their Rock II field trip. Sunday was going to be a fun day with no real plans but to get some climbing in.

We started Saturday morning early and immediately got down to business by climbing Midway and Sabre at Castle Rock. Toward the afternoon, a queue developed for Midway, and Castle Rock was seriously crowded. So, a bunch of us headed over to Ground Hog's Day to leave the crowds while the others completed their routes. This was now the third time I've climbed Ground Hog's Day, and still find the route finding a bit difficult on the third pitch. It appears someone added a foot of chain to the top anchors to make the rappel easier, but we chose to double rope rappel to the anchors at the top of the alternate start. It was still a bit of a rope stretcher, but worked for our purposes.

Afterward, we had dinner in town, and returned to 8-mile campground, which is now open for the season.

We planned out a Sunday that would involve climbing R&D and then The Tree Route. However, we were a little lazy with our wake up time, and had three parties in front of us when we got to R&D. So we headed to Domestic Dome to do a link up of B.S. and Connie's Crack. I am really amazed at the rating on B.S. as it feels much stiffer than a 5.6 through the slab section. It is also a bit run out through that section and quite a wake up call. Connie's Crack was fun, and should probably have a one star rating as it is quite enjoyable with a really fun finish.

After our period of time at Domestic Dome, Matt J. and Adam decided to call it quits for the day and spend the afternoon slack lining at the campground. Matt P., Shari, Steen and I headed up to The Tree Route to climb. I was set to take first lead, but perhaps due to heat or tiredness, I didn't feel up to leading the first twelve feet of lieback that starts the route. Matt was willing to, and we worked out a system where I would follow and we would each bring one of the women up to the top of the first pitch. During the lead, Matt weighted a few pieces including a 0.5 Camalot which I could not remove. Both Steen and Shari spent time trying to remove it, and none were successful. A bit of a bummer for Matt.

I led out on the second pitch which is mostly 3rd class terrain with a few 4th or 5th class steps in it. This brings you to a large ledge where the start of the third pitch is.

The third pitch is the reason this route has a two star rating. It starts on some enjoyable cracks up a short face to a roof. The roof is not particularly imposing, but looks a bit difficult get around. But once up at the roof, the holds are there, and it is fairly easy to go around the corner. After that, you reach the start of the crack system that the final pitch is known for. Around the corner from the roof, it is a large fist crack for someone of my hand size. For most people it is an off-width crack. I managed to get my #9 hex in shortly after the roof as I was saving the #4 cam for higher up, and the #3 cam was too small to be effective. After a few moves, the crack sort of disappears, and I was able to place smaller protection in that period. Then the crack picks up again after a short sandy ledge. I placed my #4 cam as high as I could get it, and decided that I would try to leap frog it up with me to have protection for the last stretch. I made the tricky moves off the ledge and into the crack. Then I moved up past the piece. At this point, I was in a comfortable stance with my feet about one foot higher than the piece. I tried a few times to get at the piece, but decided that it was too difficult to get, and that there was a real possibility that even if I did manage to access it, that I may drop it, and it would slide down the rope leaving me with no protection. So I made the decision to run-out the last 15' or so to the top. Since the crack goes through a slab, and it is off-width, most likely a fall would have resulted with me slipping deeper into the crack anyway.

After carefully getting through the final moves it was time to bring Steen up. I told her to leave in the big hex and #4 cam for Matt to use, as I knew he only had one #4 cam on him as well. Unfortunately, he spent his #4 cam lower and had only my #4 to protect the final stretch of crack. However, he was more successful than me in leap-frogging the cam up to halfway through the final stretch. He arrived on top after leaving the crack to climb the slabs and belayed Shari up. We did a walk-off to climbers right with a short single rope rappel off a Douglas Fir. By the time we got back to the car, it was almost 8pm. I think we blew a lot of time trying to remove Matt's stuck piece. I guess also we just climbed a little slow. Long weekend. When we got back, we were met by Matt J. and Adam who had just returned from town and dinner. I jumped in the car with them, where I was told they both napped fairly long while we were on the route. I guess we all needed some sleep.

My pics are here.