Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Exit 38 - 04.20.09

Steve called me Monday morning telling me he got sent home from work and wanted to know if I would like to go out. I told him I was tired and could be persuaded. After a talking on the phone I decided that I would go out after eating a lunch, and Steve agreed to pick me up at 12:30pm.

We decided on Exit 38 as it was close. He asked if I wanted to go to Gun Show. Since I had never been, I agreed, and after a short hike we were there. I told him due to my tired state, I wasn't sure how interested I was in leading, which was fine with him. So we geared up and he led Endless Bliss in a single pitch and then brought me up. The beta we had listed it as a 5.9, but we both felt it a bit easy for a 5.9 and was probably more like a 5.7 or 5.8. (Even with a wet seep at the bottom, it did not feel 5.9) However, it easily deserves the three stars it has in the guide. The climbing is enjoyable, and it is in a wonderful position. Highly aesthetic.

We then climbed the 5.9 (GS-7) immediately to the left of Endless Bliss. This was a fun short route which had two small roofs to negotiate.

After climbing GS-7, we set out sights on top-roping Super Squish. Our beta said it was a .12a, but we thought it looked easier. Steve set up a top rope, and I gave it a go first. There are a few easier moves to gain the rock, then there are some difficult crimpy moves to get into a shallow corner. Once mostly up the corner, the moves get easier again to the chains. I hung a few times through the crux. Steve climbed it and slipped once at the crux, and then got back on and climbed it to the top. We both agreed afterward that the climb should be no more than a 5.11a. When I got home that night, I looked in the book and it was listed as a 5.10d. Sounds about right for an Exit 38 rating.

It was already 4:30pm so we decided on one more route before leaving. We walked around the corner to GS-6, a supposedly easier 5.8 to finish up on. This route seemed more difficult for us than either Endless Bliss or GS-7. There was a short chimney bit near the bottom that was somewhat trying, and the last moves to the chains were difficult. (Perhaps due to the wet seep that made traction difficult.) After that climb we hiked out under the hot sun.

Pics are here.

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