Garibaldi Peak - May 24-25

This past weekend Julie and I made an attempt at the NE face of Garibaldi Peak in British Columbia. One thing I realized is how much more difficult it is to climb in another country. Weather and avalanche information was a little harder to come by than the 4+ outlets I look at for Cascades weather. For Canada, distances and altitudes are in km and m which makes for in head conversions. We ran into issues on this climb due to the weather not being cold enough and we had some route finding issues. We turned back at a high point of 2050m on what I would call the East Ridge of Atwell Peak. (A sub-summit of Garibaldi.) We set off a good size cornice slide and walked around the glacier a bit before turning around and heading home. It was a tough decision to make not going for the summit, but probably the correct one.

Julie nearing our turn around point. Garibaldi summit is second from right.

Evidence of our cornice release.

Crevasses and ice falls on a glacier.

Beautiful British Columbia mountains.

For Julie's pictures click here: Julie's Pics

First Index Trip - May 17

Sorry, no pictures. I haven't exactly figured out the easiest way to take pictures while rock climbing. I'm usually doing something that involves people's well being and prefer not to multitask. So it was my first time at Index. Julie and I went to the lower town wall, and climbed The Great Northern Slab. (5.6) It is an enjoyable route, and wasn't too busy. Interesting anchors at the top of the first pitch. (The Railroad bolts) comprise of a set up old 1"+ iron rings that were used when the area was a quarry. The day was hot and we top-roped a 5.8 hand/fist crack later in the afternoon. Fortunately it was partially shaded.

Second Backcountry Ski - May 15

With warm temps (Seattle in the 70°s) predicted and avalanche danger on the rise, Sammy and I canceled our climb of the Tooth, and decided to do a ski tour up to Camp Muir on Mt. Rainier. The route only has one avy prone area at Panorama Point, but we knew we could avoid any issues with that. Snow was in good condition on the way up, but softened up a little too much for our run down at 3pm. Overall it was a good learning experience for both of us and we had a good time. It took about 5 hours to skin up and about 2 to ski/walk down. (I did the walking for a bit.)

On the way to Pan Point in the morning.

Skin track up the snowfield.

Panorama from Camp Muir from Goat Rocks to St. Helens.

Sammy on ski down.