Exfoliation Dome - Westward Ho! - 10.17.10

Rod and I planned to get out on Sunday. Our goal was going to be The Blueberry Route or West Buttress of Exfoliation Dome. We wanted to get an early start, but not so early we had to ascend the "granite sidewalk" in the dark. We left Seattle around 5:45 am and arrived near the parking area around sun break.

However, we did not fully comprehend the beta for parking. Which I read as "park at the granite sidewalk." Other beta said it is the second wash. Well, we parked where a slide blocked the road and we walked the road for ten minutes before deciding that it must be the slide we parked at and proceeded back. The initial section was fairly wet, and we bypassed it in the woods before descending to the granite slabs in a few minutes. The slabs were still fairly wet and dirty, and I opined that we may not be on route, but we continued. We met an area that could be considered "the Grotto" and we climbed out of it on the left via a horizontal tree. At this point I continued in the woods as there was no undergrowth, and the going was fairly good. I found this better compared to the dirty wet slabs. Rod stayed on the slabs before eventually joining me in the woods.

At a section that looked like we were near getting out of the trees I suggested again that we may be off route. But we both managed to tell ourselves everything would be clear after the next bit. Rod started up some scary, possibly 5th class slabs. I didn't like them, so tried to bypass them around the left. But the slabs went on for a bit, and when I rounded the corner, I saw Exfoliation Dome about a quarter mile to the east. Rod was out of sight and high on the ridge above me. After some shouting we worked out a plan that would have him descend to me and then we would continue to the Dome from my location.

As he descended, I crossed an avy path bushwhack to a stand of trees. I waited for him there. He ended up having to rappel to get down and eventually reached my location where I was cold. It was not almost 11am. I told him there was no way we could keep the goal of the Blueberry Route, and we would have to settle for Westward Ho! a shorter mostly bolted route. We continued toward our route across another avy path into another stand of trees. On the other side lay the true granite sidewalk and we made some difficult moves getting onto it from the wet slimy corner that bordered the trees. The sun had yet to shine on the sidewalk, and it was still a touch slick from the morning frost. (It was 28° in Arlington as we drove through.) Rod and I gingerly made it up to the base of the route where we had lunch.

We actually made it halfway up the first pitch of Blueberry Route where there was a nice ledge and two rock seats. We had the crag all to ourselves, and geared up there. We packed the rope, water and a couple of poofy jackets and we were ready to go. We had brought a full rack for The Blueberry Route, but the beta for Westward Ho! was specific on what gear to bring. We decided to bring the full rack minus a few items just in case. I led up the first bit which completed the first pitch of The Blueberry Route, a wide crack up a slab. Unfortunately, a #4 didn't really fit in there, and made me wish we didn't bring it. I tried going further, but realized I would run out of rope if I intended to make it to the top of pitch one of Westward Ho!, so I backtracked and anchored and brought Rod up.

Rod led out on the next pitch, but skipped a bolt he didn't see before crossing the gully. then he had difficulty committing to the final move to make the first true on route bolt. He did finally come up with the right sequence, and then balked at making the moves above the bolt. He made a few attempts with very short falls, and a bit of hanging as well. He even attempted a lower and climb of the pitch on top rope to the bolt before he told me he wasn't feeling it and asked if I could give it a go. I lowered him back to my position and we switched ends of the rope before I headed out.

I climbed to the bolt on top rope. I initially feared what the pitch might look like as I often think of Rod being able to climb harder routes than me. I got to the bolt and found it to be fairly typical 5.8/5.9 slab. I eyed up the features, and climbed to the next bolt, clipping it. I did the same for the next bolt as well. Then there were some interesting moves up an overlap and leftward under a medium sized attached flake before rounding a corner and heading up after clipping another bolt. The difficulty eased off and I ran out of rope about four feet shy of the anchor. Rod tore the anchor, and I reached the anchor and brought him up. I think he slipped once, but otherwise had no major difficulties with the pitch on top rope. When he got to the belay, we discussed if he was up to leading it. This pitch was rated at 5.8 unlike the 5.9 previous pitch. He said it was now or never and took the rack and started up.

It appeared he may have been a little to the left of the route when his feet gave way while attempting to make a clip near the crux of the pitch. He took a fall that where he started on his feet, but finished with him skidding on his side down the slab. I asked if he was OK, and he said yes. I told him nice work in warning me about his fall, as he said "take" or "falling" just before he popped. He continued back up and had no issues with the rest of the pitch. I arrived at his location and we briefly consulted the topo before I set out on the third pitch.

This pitch was the easiest of them all, but once again rated at 5.9. The early section of the pitch was 5.6 and had at least 12' of spacing between the bolts. I had a bit of a scare between the widest spaced bolts when I was a bit left of the route on more lichen covered rock, and my left foot blew out. I did not fall, but it made me careful about getting the next bolt. The crux of this pitch did not at all feel 5.9, and I cruised the final section before bringing Rod up.

We swung leads and he headed off on the final pitch. From below, it was noticeably more dirty than the previous pitches and headed up through some overlaps before reaching the chains. Rod led this pitch and slowly overcame the overlaps placing tiny cams along the way. This was really the only pitch that required traditional gear. I hurried up behind Rod, and we began to rap the route.

No issues rapping, and we rejoined the rest of our gear at the base. We packed up and we started the long journey down the granite sidewalk. We were somewhat hampered by our lack of having not taken the sidewalk up and had to pick our way down like it was new to us. Fortunately the descent started easy with sandy ledges to skier's right of the slabs. Soon, we had to get on the slabs, and followed some corners and other features down. Then there were a few blank sections. I don't know if it was because I had a heavier pack, it was late in the day, or I had been sick, but I couldn't handle walking down the slabs at this point and reverted to crab walking. This proved not to be much slower than me walking, but we weren't making the best time. We eventually reached some bushes above The Grotto. We bushwhacked and down climbed a bit on the tree (mentioned in the guide) before getting into the grotto. The remaining slab bits were fairly wet and dirty and we were slow avoiding all the water down to where the path became boulders and not slab. Around 100m later, we were back at the road with headlamps on hiking back to the car. Turns out there is a nice parking area just after the granite sidewalk, but somehow we were unaware of that in the morning.

Overall this was an interesting trip. I am sort of bummed about not getting on the route we anticipated, but not surprising considering we turned the hour approach into a four hour ordeal. Westward Ho! was great, but descending the granite sidewalk I found not so fun. I think it will be a while before I head back to Exfoliation Dome again.

My pics are here.

Three O' Clock Rock - 09.22.10

I finally got out for the first time in over a month. Originally the plan was for Matt, Adam and I to climb at 3 O' Clock Rock, but Adam was coming down with a cold and decided to stay home. Thankfully he drove Matt to my house where we left Seattle for Darrington after a brief coffee stop around 7:30am or so.

We were at the base of the crag around 10am to witness lots of water streaks on the rock. I was a bit surprised as the previous day had no precip, and it didn't really rain too much in the days prior to that (at least in Seattle.) The route I had intended to do, Revolver looked to be the wettest on the rock, but we decided to give it a go anyway. We had to take the Silent Running start, as the approach pitch to Revolver was a watery mess.

I led up the first pitch of Silent Running and brought Matt up to lead the traverse. The traverse was relatively easy, but had some loose flakes and seeps to cross. We reracked at the start of the first pitch to Revolver for Matt to lead. Unfortunately, the opening moves were dripping wet and he had to detour around the overlaps to keep the feet dry. It worked out well and soon I was following. We looked over the second pitch and decided it would go.

I led out on the second pitch and made some easy moves to cross another water streak to continue. The rest of the pitch was dry and I eyed the third pitch while bringing Matt up.

We decided that the third pitch would go as well, and Matt set off to climb it. A little slip near the crux of the pitch, and a few clips later he was at the chains. I came up and we agreed that the fourth and fifth pitches would not be climbed by us today due to dripping water. We rapped off and contemplated our next objective while eating lunch. It was only 1pm.

Wet slabs above the third pitch

We opted to climb Cornucopia, unless it was too wet. After the short hike/bushwhack over to the base, we deemed it dry enough to climb. Actually, it was completely dry, and it was a little warmer over on the south buttress compared to the north buttress, even taking into account that it was now the warmest time of day. The sun had been in and out of the clouds most of the day, but was appearing to be behind them for the rest of the day when I started off on the first pitch.

While not wet, the route was quite dirty. It was littered with pine needles, moss and lichen. I had a few false starts before slinging a bush and heading up the corner. The climbing was fun, and not difficult except for the dirty qualities. The protection wasn't great for a bit either, but I made do. I arrived at the top and brought a speedy Matt up, not before requesting he pack my poofy as it was getting windy.

He led out on the second pitch and got a bit scared during the runout to the anchors. (I don't blame him.) I followed, and led a pulse raising third pitch with balanced moves and well spaced bolts. Everything turned out fine, and we were both on top starting to rap. After the raps, we did the hike out and drove back to Seattle.

Overall it was great to finally get out again and to one of my favorite places. I was sure with the early start to Autumn, that I was unlikely to get back to Darrington again this year. Not only did I get back and with good weather, Matt and I got to climb two routes although Revolver did not get completed. We did a total of seven pitches in the roughly six hours that we were there. It was a great time, and hopefully not the end to my cragging season. Revolver seems like a nice route, but could use more feet to clean it up and make it shine. It seems that Cornucopia could also benefit from more traffic, especially since the top anchor seemed a bit old as well.

My pics are here.

Three O' Clock Rock - Silent Running - 07.11.10

I offered to go out with Sabrina for her 40th birthday to Darrington. We chose Three O' Clock Rock as it had the shortest approach and felt Silent Running was a good route for the day. Sabrina invited her friend Jayshree to come along who had never been to any of the Darrington crags.

We left Seattle around 6am and made a final stop in the Darrington gas station before driving up the forest road to the trail head where two cars were parked. A casual gearing up and we made the walk up to Three O' Clock Rock to find no other parties there. We were now in the sunlight, and it was quite hot. We discussed who would lead what pitches, and Sabrina set about leading the first pitch.

At the top of the pitch we retied so Sabrina was in the middle and I headed off on the next pitch. It started out smoothly but was a bit cruxy near the end of pitch with some more difficult moves. It ended on a comfortable ledge where I sat to belay them up. Jayshree took the next lead which was a pitch I really enjoyed. One of the guide books calls it "the...pitch defines the character of D-Town slab dancing at its best." The lower two thirds of the pitch is all friction with palms and smears before reaching some small flakes before the belay. It was wonderfully fun and I cruised up it on top rope. A completely different experience form last year where I felt it was slippery.

Sabrina led out on the next pitch which is the pitch I got off route on last year. I told her to trust the line and the hidden fixed pin would reveal itself. She was hesitant to enter the run out, but did and found the pin and continued through the easier run out to the final corner and the anchor. She brought us up. It was fun to climb this pitch correctly as there was a large easy section of chicken heads midway through the pitch that was fun climbing. Clouds rolled in around this time and cooled things off a bit.

Upon arriving at the belay, I quickly racked up and headed out on the next pitch. This pitch was fairly nondescript and easier than I remembered it from last year. I cruised up it feeling it was much easier than the 5.8 rating it holds. There was some run out near the top, but on easier ground. I brought the women up and Jayshree got the next lead which I previously felt was the star pitch of the route. She led the pitch confidently and brought Sabrina and I up. The bolts on this pitch were closer spaced than I remembered them, but probably due to the fact that I was leading it last year. The belay stance was not large and I got moving quickly to lead the final(bonus) pitch.

This time on lead, I found it easier to surmount the overlaps/roofs that are the prominent features of the lower part of the pitch. I kept telling myself that the crux was at the last bolt on the slab where Steve had to take last year. I knew it was important to save my feet on the way there, so I could work it quickly and get through it. After the overlaps, I took rests on prominent ledges before tackling a small corner and heading out onto the crux slab. (The "Weekend Rock" guide book claims the final corner to be the crux, but I do not think so.) The slab is fairly steep there and lacks the undulations of previous pitches. I moved up and clipped the one bolt. A few moves higher and I was able to reach out right to the final bolt and clipped it. Then I moved up and found myself lacking a direction to continue. As I tried to figure out what to do, I fell. It was somewhat unexpected. I felt like a time bomb ticking right before the fall. I also have a vague recollection of about to yell something to the belay, which caused me to yell "falling" a little late. The fall was uneventful, as I just ran down the slab backward. I hung briefly to rest my feet and then got back on the horse. This time I took a line farther to the right and closer to the final bolt which seemed to have the friction I needed to gain the big flake and breathe a sign of relief. I tried desperately to place a nut, and got a halfway decent placement before moving up the final fun corner where I placed two more pieces as I wasn't confident about the nut or felt 100% about the cams either. After that I was at the tiny quartz dike ledge that was the final belay.

I brought Sabrina up. She stumbled a few times in the area I fell and then pushed through the moves as my nut placement popped. She joined me at the small stance and belayed Jayshree up. While none of us thought the beginning overlaps were the cruxes, Jayshree felt fine with that slab and felt the crux was a touch lower near the previous corner.

We began our raps, and the parties below us on route were kind enough to either get off route, or wait for us to join them at larger stations. Rapping went fairly smoothly, and Sabrina and Jayshree even simul rapped the final pitch.

I really enjoy this route. This time, I enjoyed the third and final pitches the most. I really need to come back and lead the third pitch as it is the only difficult pitch I have not led on this route. We brought a rack with us, and used at least one piece on every pitch with the final pitch taking the most gear (3-5 pieces.) No need for a #4 on the pitch, and aliens were the real stars. I think I would not bring nuts in the future as they are too difficult to place in most spots on this route. It was also fun having three, as it gave us more relax time, and negated the need for carrying a second rope.

My pics are here.
Sabrina's pics here.

Three O' Clock Rock - 03.05.10

Adam had been requesting a trip to Darrington after he found out I went last week. So we hoped for the next sunny/dry cycle to make a trip. Since there was at least a full day without precip we opted to go out to Three O' Clock rock on Friday to see what we could climb.

Due to some technical complications we left later than we wanted to, but I figure that only gave more time for the sun to come out and dry off any wet rock. Driving through Arlington on the way up we could see frost on some roofs that were still in the shade. (The temp was around freezing when I left my house.) I wasn't too concerned because last week there was frost on the trail on the way up and the rock was great.

After the hike up, Adam and I reached the rock around 10am. We spied the route we were intending to climb ('Til Broad Daylight) and thought it looked wet high on the first pitch (or on the second pitch depending on the topo.) We opted to warm up on "Under the Bored Walk" to get a better look at the wetness and see if we should give it a go. This was the route we had noticed had been rebolted last week. Although the anchors did not appear to be rebolted, the rest of the route was and the hangers were stamped with the ASCA letters. We split "Bored Walk" into two pitches. I led the first and Adam led the second. We then did two single rope rappels back to base. Upon rapping I got a good look at the seeps on "Daylight" and decided we should give it a go.

We scrambled up to the base of the route only to see a seep running right down the first ten feet or more. I found an alternate start to the left up a crack and headed off. Adam and I agreed we would split the first two pitches and I would lead both. Due to my detour, the first pitch used a few cams before I was able to clip a bolt or two. The climbing was fairly easy, but the first pitch is always a place where you are trying to dry out your shoe soles, so there was not a whole lot of confidence. I reached the relatively comfy belay stance and brought Adam up.

I eyed the next pitch which appeared well protected although with older SMC buttonhead bolts. This pitch is described as devious and possibly the best 5.8 pitch on the rock in "Weekend Rock." Looking at it I thought the crux would be surmounting the final overlap which seemed quite steep from the belay. I dispatched the first overlap with no issue and was soon sizing up the next one. Due to its proximity to the side of "The Great Arch" this pitch had something I don't normally see on slabs which is some exposure. In order to gain the second overlap I had to go far left to the edge of the arch before making a difficult balance move onto the next overlap. A handful of moves further and I was confronting the final overlap before the next anchor.

Unfortunately this was the section that had multiple seeps on it. Fortunately though, they did not interfere greatly with gaining the overlap. There was also a huge bucket hold that the seeps poured into that left my hand soaking wet upon grabbing the hold. I clipped the bolt above the overlap and started to work out my moves. I thought I was going to have to grab the draw and warned Adam of this. But a few moves of my feet up slightly higher and I mimicked the move that gained me the previous slab. I made a few quick moves to establish myself on this slab and then was able to clip the next bolt. This is where I realized the water was affecting the route. My right foot was on a larger platform but this was just above the bucket I had my hand in earlier and water was running over the platform. Not a lot mind you, but enough to wet it. There appeared to be good dry rock for my left side, but I couldn't find anything for my right. So after attempting a few holds in the water I decided I did not want to be a hero and pulled on the draw to get my right foot out of the water and head up generally to the left of all the water. It was about ten or more feet to the anchor and I was able to place a small cam before reaching the not so comfortable stance. I brought Adam up and he climbed through the wetness on top rope.

When Adam got to the belay he was tying in. I said "I presume this means you want me to lead the next pitch?" To which he responded "yes." This next pitch started with some good moves before moving right to surmount yet another overlap. I moved up from the anchor and was able to get a small cam in before moving right and then I was able to clip a bolt that protected the overlap moves. It was fairly easy and then there were some moves to gain a corner where I was able to place another cam while liebacking the corner. I told Adam this was the good stuff, but it ended shortly as the crack disappeared and I was left with climbing the corner and clipping some bolts. Finger pockets appeared at the end of the corner where there was a small step up. Then a short distance up a knobby face past a couple of bolts to the anchor. While not comfortable, this stance was somewhat more comfortable than the previous and I brought Adam up.

I was concerned about time as it appeared the sun might be going behind the ridge. Once without direct sun, it gets cold on the rock and I didn't want that to happen. We had three pitches to go and my mind was a bit stressed from having led the three to this point. When Adam arrived at the belay I told him if we started the next pitch we would probably have to finish the route due to rappel anchor locations. I then told him I would lower him to the top of pitch one anchors of "The Kone" and that I would then rappel to him. After I lowered him, I rapped down while he got ready the second rope for a double rope rappel back to the base. We made quick work of the second rappel and arrived on the ground to realize it was only 2pm. So we set about to climb something shorter.

I walked to the left of "The Great Arch" and was going to eye the first pitch of "Tidbits" for Adam. It is a 5.6, but when I got there I realized there were only three bolts in about 70' of climbing, so that wasn't a good option for him to lead. I had him come by with the book, and we decided that "Magic Bus" would be our final objective of the day. It is typically climbed as two pitches, but supposedly there are more above that are now forgotten. I offered the first lead to Adam as the second pitch is supposed to be slightly harder. After some internal deliberation, he went for it, and he was on his way. During the lead he said he didn't think anything on the route was 5.8. After following it I agreed. I led the second pitch and also found it to be easier than the rating it was given. There was one tricky move at the top, but perhaps due to our height, Adam and I did not find it that difficult. Adam had left his jacket at the base and was now getting cold as we were no longer in the sun. I lowered him down to the first pitch anchors and then we did a double rope rappel from there. Once again, the route appeared to have newer bolts on the first pitch but had older hardware for the anchors and the second pitch. Perhaps someone can get more of those ASCA donations for this route. I found it to be quite a good beginner lead at Three O' Clock Rock.

After "Magic Bus" Adam and I packed up and hiked out. This was a great day with better than expected weather. We climbed approximately seven pitches. Once again, I suffered from some bad stances at the belays. It is funny when the climbing wears you out less than the belay stations.

My pics are here.