Mount Rainier - Liberty Ridge - 07.14-16.10

Scott Heinz is in an intermission between work and school and asked if I was interested in Liberty Ridge. It was "in" and the weather was looking good. We decided to give it a go based on the current conditions. This was a pretty exciting prospect, as it was in the book "Fifty Classic Climbs in North America." We also knew that neither of us had been training to do Mount Rainier and this would be the toughest route yet we would do on the mountain.

The plan was to do the climb in three days with camps at Curtis Ridge and Thumb Rock. We would carry over the summit and descend the Emmons Glacier to return to the car on the third day. We left Seattle casually at 7am our first day and were registering with the ranger a few hours later. We drove out to the White River campground and geared up for our hike in.

Day 1:
The hike in was pleasant on a few miles of washed out trail before regaining the unwashed portion. Just before the Glacier Basin Camp, there was some patchy snow, and virtually all campsites in the camp had snow where you would pitch a tent. We headed out into the basin and took a final rest before getting onto the snow for the trudge up to St. Elmo's Pass. When we went to put our packs back on we noticed plenty of insects running around and some were on our gear. When we got onto the snow, they were everywhere. After a while they dissipated. We then hiked up to St. Elmo's where we took another break before roping up to cross the Winthrop Glacier. We scouted views of the glacier for the best travel option and thought crossing high would work best, but we opted to follow the boot tracks a bit lower. At some point the tracks disappeared, and there was a set of fresher tracks that we followed which brought us much lower to avoid the crevasses which resulted in us having to head uphill to regain the track onto Curtis Ridge. After crossing, it looks like the high route would have worked just fine with a little bit of dropping down on the glacier before heading up to the ridge.

We remained roped up for a bit on Curtis Ridge before deciding that the rope was hindering our progress. Our route finding and late day snow conditions were hindering our progress as well. We complained about our heavy three day packs and wondered how people make it to camp in five hours. We eventually made our way to the western side of the ridge and located a camp at around 7200'. After setting up camp, I hiked around to see if there were better camps, but it appears we got the biggest and best. We had our dinner and lounged around as we had arrived at camp early enough to have such a luxury. Our plan was to wake up in the morning and take the hike up to Thumb Rock for our next camp, hoping to arrive around noon.

Day 2:
We awoke pleasantly around 7am and ate breakfast and broke camp. In short time we were getting on the Carbon Glacier across a marginal crevasse. Navigation across the Carbon Glacier was a bit more straightforward than on the Winthrop. Although it seemed like there were more longitudinal crevasses on the glacier. I did poke a leg through a snow bridge to my knee at one point as well in an area that did not look suspicious. Then we had to navigate through a small icefall to gain the upper glacier. Scott led across it and belayed me up as he feared the small bridge might collapse and pull him off. It was still morning, but the snow was getting soft in the warm temperatures.

After the belay I led off toward the next crux of gaining the ridge. From farther away it appeared there would be a bergschrund to cross. As I headed up around a corner, I heard Scott yelp. I brought him in to the relative safety of the area I was in and he explained why. He had punctured his ankle with a crampon point while post holing in the soft snow. He fixed it up while we made the decision whether or not to continue. While debating a solo skier passed by and told us the snow did not freeze overnight, and he decided to head down rather than risk going higher than Thumb Rock. We made a decision to continue and made our way through the remaining crevasses to gain the ridge around 9200'.

We chose to gain the ridge low because there appeared to be a bigger bergschrund issue gaining it higher. Not to mention exposing ourselves to more rockfall and icefall from above. However, this path we opted for had its own issues. After our initial trivial crossing of a moat on a snow bridge, we ascended a steep snow slope to arrive on loose volcanic rock. Scott, above me, sent a few softball sized pieces whizzing down past me. I reached him and we removed the rope and started a rising traverse on the snow passing through several more loose wet rock bands before reaching the final slope under Thumb Rock. The snow was soft and we plugged away at the 35° or steeper slope before eventually attaining the col between Thumb Rock and the next higher unnamed gendarme.

We looked at our bivy options and noticed that all the dug out platforms had rockfall on them. And bowling ball sized at that. Scott looked at me and was unhappy. He told me he would rather be anywhere else tonight than sleeping between two crumbly gendarmes. I told him there was no way I was going down and across the belayed snow bridge in the height of the day's heat. We decided at a minimum to stay until 6pm. (It was one or two at the time.) At first, we melted snow for water. Once we had our fill, we began work on improving the platform we liked the best by making the uphill wall higher, and the catching trench deeper above the wall. This was going well until the shovel broke. We managed to finish our engineering project wielding a handleless shovel and an ice ax, but it took most of the afternoon.

After not noticing any significant rockfall while digging, we felt a little more safe. It appeared that the warm temps and soft snow were on our side as none of the rock falling off the higher gendarme made it a significant distance in the soft snow. We were going to stay until midnight to test the snow to see if it firmed up enough to make the summit push. We ate dinner and bedded down around 7pm.

Neither of us were sleeping as the wind picked up and the sun started setting. Oh, and we both didn't want to fall asleep and be killed by rockfall in our slumber. We tried to rest placing our arms around our heads to protect from rocks. Around 8pm a couple arrived after making the push from the trail head in one day. We chatted with them a bit, before attempting to sleep again. I think I eventually slept after it got dark, but Scott did not. I awoke about 10-15 minutes before our midnight alarm and I was very cold. I tried to get back to sleep without reaching out of the sleeping bag to get more layers when the alarm went off.

We got dressed quickly and tested the snow. It seemed quite firm, but Scott's ankle that he had punctured was acting up. We sat in the tent eating wearing all our clothes. I gave Scott some ibuprofen. We made a choice to go for it and started breaking camp. It was probably close to 2am by the time we finally headed off in the darkness.

We opted to leave with two "tools" out and do running belays up from camp. This may not have been wholly necessary, but we felt safer doing it. There were a few icy spots where I was able to place screws down low, so it was reassuring to have the rope on and not be soloing. The angle wasn't so steep that soloing wasn't out of the equation though.

We had hoped to do 500' of vertical in an hour, but due to lack of sleep and heavy bags, we were averaging 300-400'. The sun started casting a glow on the mountain before 4am and broke the horizon a bit before 5:30am with spectacular color. This is where I really enjoyed the route. The views were amazing as well as our location. The upper ridge is aesthetic and should be done in daylight. The climbing was easy and the ice step was getting closer to view. We continued upward following a boot pack laid by others before us. We stopped a bit to watch a huge icefall from the Liberty Cap Glacier go sliding down to the Carbon Glacier. We marched upward.

The wind was picking up. Above 13000' where the slope angle eases off, is where the wind really made itself known. We anticipated an easy trudge across a lower angle slope before reaching the ice step. With the wind (predicted to be in the 40's) the trek became just an effort to stand up. It was around 9:30 am and we set a belay so Scott could lead out on the step. He led up and over and brought me up. I had put on my poofy jacket to belay, but could not take it off to continue climbing. It was a shame. Prior to the wind I felt I had properly dressed for the climb. The climbing was not too difficult, but the wind, lack of sleep and heavy packs made the WI2 feel much more difficult than it really was.

I led out on a short pitch of ice traverse and brought Scott in. We hoped to simul climb to the Liberty Cap summit from there, but he stopped on the next slope and set a belay. There was a short pitch of ice that had to be climbed to reach the ridge to the top. I lead through the rest of the ice and decided to set a belay just below the ridge to avoid the worsening wind. (By now what was exposed of my face was getting pelted with spin drift.) This was increased by the couple catching and passing us creating more loose snow to blow around. I brought Scott up and he headed to the ridge. He attempted to yell something to me, but I could not hear. I could barely look in his direction due to the wind. He was maybe thirty feet away. I waved at him to continue and he disappeared over the ridge.

The rope went tight and I followed it. I reached his location where he asked me if it was fine if we did not summit. I told him I'd do anything to get out of the wind. (I had half crawled to his location just to not get blown over.) We walked parallel to the ridge missing the Liberty Cap summit by maybe twenty five feet. Around the corner, the wind stopped. We sat and relaxed and had lunch (it was now Noon.) Scott was sure it was 4pm. This was our first real break since leaving camp, and our first attempt to eat or drink since the wind started four or more hours earlier. A few clouds blew around the summit and I suggested we leave immediately as not to get caught in a lenticular white out like I did last year.

We hiked down to the top of the Emmons Glacier and followed a boot path to descend. The going was much easier as we were heading downhill and out of the wind. There were no scary snowbridges and soon we were on an open slope plunge stepping down. This became tedious and we stopped to remove our crampons for some roped glissading. We made it to Camp Sherman around 2:30pm and stopped for a break and to change into shorts. We hustled as best we could out the InterGlacier before reaching the trail and hiking out.

One the way out we ran into folks telling us to head back up the trail. There was a beautiful black bear heading up it. After some confusion and tense moments, the bear left the trail and we made a hasty pass of it down the trail. The rest of the hike out was uneventful.

Although arduous, this was a great trip. While I am not sure what would have made this route a "50 Classics" it was a very nice route for the upper portion. The conditions on the lower portion were miserable. Technically the route was easy. I do not feel there was a slope above 40° except for the ice step. It was also made easier for us by previous parties as we mostly followed footsteps to the top. It is unlikely a route I'd want to repeat soon, but given time, I would probably reconsider it. It was well suited to my using the Black Diamond Venom ice axes as most of the climbing was using piolet canne. While we minimized dangerous rock and ice fall with the route we took, the lower ridge still seemed a bit sketchy. It was very interesting to be out on a side of the mountain that most people do not venture to. Watching the Willis Wall slough off rock and snow repeatedly was powerful and wild. The views were fantastic. It was nice having some solitude that you do not see on the dog routes on Mount Rainier. The winds at the summit were just awful. (Once again proving that wind is my least favorite weather.) Telemetry from the mountain displayed winds of 40mph at 10000', so it wouldn't surprise me if the wind was blowing more than 60mph. It was hard to walk without having one ice ax touching the snow at all times.

In other news, I continued the ginkgo experiment and took ginkgo capsules during the climb (about 1000mg/day.) This really seemed to work to combat AMS as I never experienced a headache or dizziness. I did feel fatigued and lethargic, but I did not eat or drink much on summit day, so it is hard to blame solely on altitude. I will continue to use the ginkgo on trips where I will be going above 8000' for longer periods of time.

My pics are here.
Scott's pics here.

Condorphamine Addiction - 05.08.10

This was supposed to be a non-climbing weekend. I was going to spend time with Jennifer and maybe go camping, or at least work in the garden. Scott dropped me an email and wanted to know if I was interested in joining him on Orbit, and I had a hard time refusing. You see, my spring has been stagnant, as I am repeating routes I have already done. I needed to get out and climb/lead something harder. Orbit was just the ticket. So I was to meet Scott, Claire and Dave out in Leavenworth in the morning as they were going to head out the night before.

Driving over the pass, the weather turned more wet on the east side of the crest. I was concerned. Down in Tumwater Canyon it was raining, but I could see a bit of blue skies to the east. Perhaps it was dry and fine in the Icicle? I arrived at the wet Snow Creek parking lot to see Dave standing around in his poofy, with perhaps a super light rain falling. We waited a moment before Scott and Claire arrived and assessed the situation.

Initially Scott and I were in favor of the "let's get some exercise" option of hiking up and checking it out. But we didn't seem to have a majority on that one. So we decided to wait an hour or more and see what would happen. We bided our time at the Sleeping Lady where Claire and Scott had breakfast. Scott periodically checked the sky to see if it was clearing. Hard to tell if it was.

We headed back to the parking lot to gear up. It appeared we were going to go through with the hike after all. Just before we left the parking lot I mentioned that we couldn't bail off the route without leaving gear. Even if it was currently dry up there, and we started climbing, what if the 30% chance of showers hit us on route? We would have to keep going up if we didn't want to leave gear. I offered the suggestion of climbing Condorphamine Addiction. While I was interested in repeating that route again, this was not the scenario for it. All agreed, and we headed up the canyon where the sun was shining on south facing slopes!

The hike up was tedious and wet and eventually we found ourselves at the base of Condor Buttress. We geared up and Scott led out first on the .10a variation. By the time Claire was following, it started to rain slightly. I was concerned about leading the .10a variation in the rain, and opted for the standard 5.7 start pitch. I arrived at the top of the short pitch just after Claire started her lead of the second pitch. By now it had stopped raining.

Dave waited for Scott to leave the small stance before joining me at the anchor. He then led the next pitch. Dave was a bit slow and we lost touch with Scott and Claire on this pitch. I tried to cruise it remembering that it was my favorite pitch of the route from last year. However, I was confused about a move and couldn't manage it. After a while of balking, I finally made a committing move that did not feel great, but gave me forward progress. The rest of the pitch went off without such difficulties assuming you don't consider the slight hail shower that occurred. I cruised past Dave and headed up the next short pitch to bring him up.

After Dave's lead of the fourth pitch, I was ready to lead the pitch I had to aid on last year. (The only pitch I really cared about repeating on this route.) While I could not tell how Scott had completed the moves, I did see it did not take him a whole lot of effort, so I wanted to do it easily. I enjoyed the easier terrain below the crux and then made some awkward moves to the position just below it. After clipping the bolt, I worked out some moves and finally went for it with no issues. Thanks to my height, I was able to clip the next bolt as soon as I got through the crux. The bolts in this section are ridiculously close and after another step or two, I was clipping another bolt. The sequence went great, and made me now feel like perhaps this is the best pitch of the route. I brought Dave up and gave him some beta on the crux so he could complete it without grabbing the gear. Then it was off on the next pitch.

It turns out the next pitch was more cruxy than I remembered it and there were numerous bulges to overcome, although I cannot say any were more than .10a in difficulty. I also cannot say which one may have been the hardest. By the time I got to the belay Scott had already rapped from the top and I just cruised past the belay to go to the top. I brought Dave up (through some more light hail) and we set about catching Scott and Claire on the rappels. The walk out was uneventful.

While it was nice doing this route again and enjoying freeing the crux, it was not a great time. Not because of the company, but because I really wanted to get on something new and different. I wanted to be climbing a trad route and not a bolted one. When I arrived at the parking lot, I told Scott "I forgot to tell you if it is wet to call me and tell me not to come." I wish I had told him this, although he did not have cell reception and likely wouldn't have called me until I was out the door already. While we were on Condorphamine Addiction, we saw clouds in the Snow Creek Wall area all day, so I think we made a good decision not to climb it on that day. Oh well, Orbit may have to wait until next weekend.

My pics are here.
Scott's pics are here.
(Scott's got some great pix of me at the crux.)

Chair Peak - Northeast Buttress - 12.12.09

Elevation Gain: 3000'
~4 miles RT (Not including our little off route excursion.)
Left car: 5:30 am
Summit: ~2:30 pm
Back at car: 6:30 pm
13 hours car to car

I was finally able to make this happen. Although truthfully I had little to do with the planning of this trip. After a few failed (as in not even leave town) attempts of Chair, Scott had contacted me about climbing it on Saturday. Steve was unavailable, and I snapped at the chance. This was actually nice because it meant that I did not have to do the planning. And Scott's plans were in line with what I wanted to do. (A climb of the North Face of Chair.)

We met at the very early time of 4:15am at the Mercer Island P&R. We arrived in the parking lot with one car ahead of us and they left behind us as they awaited their friends (from another car) to gear up. We hit the trail under headlamp at 5:30am. The snow was very firm and Peter started with crampons on. It wasn't long before Eric caved in and put some on. I lasted only a bit longer before I decided it would be easier as well. Before we left the woods, all four of us were on crampons. While it made for surer footing, and faster movement, but it was noticeable to me at least that it required more energy. Also, using crampons on relatively flat terrain hurts my feet.

In what seemed like short time we were already heading uphill from the Source Lake basin. This is where the law of diminishing returns applies to alpine starts.* Peter was the only one who had climbed the peak previously and he suggested we were too far left. I stated that going right would lead us to Snow Lake but the north face did run down to Snow Lake, so perhaps that was correct. We checked the map by headlamp occasionally and wound up at what is probably the very toe of the buttress near Snow Lake. Unfortunately, we didn't like where we were and had to backtrack to get back on course. By this time the sun was up and we could see our objective. We were also able to see that the other party of four had passed us.

We were moving slowly but Scott was still full of energy. He arrived on the ridge before us, and went to check out the north face. He came back saying it was thin and thought that the Northeast Buttress was a good plan even if it meant waiting for the other party of four ahead of us. So we geared up and ate while waiting for the other party to get under way. While we waited, we got pelted with snow from the first party above and two other parties arrived behind us.

There are at least three variations to the first pitch of the route. I'll describe them in the conditions we saw them in. The right variation which follows the summer rock route was very thin ice and snow on rock. The party that went ahead of us placed mostly pitons to protect it. It had a steeper section but most of it was lower angle. The middle variation went up some steep snow to a thin ice slab and then to a steeper step of thicker ice. The left variation which we took crossed a rock rib and then got on some ~60° ice that was good climbing. Since we were there to climb ice, that is why we chose that variation.

After some equipment issues, Peter was the first of our group to lead off. When he went out of site after crossing the rock rib about a half rope length up he was stationary for a while. (When I arrived at the belay I found it was because he was having a crampon malfunction.) He continued up and eventually I was on my way. Followed closely by Scott. The first pitch climbing was enjoyable. The ice was firm and took picks well and soon I was on the snow slope above.

I arrived at the belay and exchanged the rack for a steep snow slog to the next belay. The snow had a sun crust and below that was sugar snow. (At this point I believe we have moved from the NE buttress proper to the East Face Variation.) Footing wasn't great, but it mostly held. If you were kicking new steps into the slope (I was trying to use existing steps) you would shower everyone below you with chunks of the crust cascading down. During my lead Peter took a piece of ice from another party to the cheek and left him with a battle scar. Protection on this pitch was limited. I moved mostly from rock to rock to gain protection. This included my first placing of a piton on lead. Then I ran it out to the next belay.

A good rock anchor was already occupied by the party ahead of us so I had to look elsewhere. We were planning on taking this ice step to the left, so I moved leftward in hopes of building an anchor out of ice screws. The ice I had to use was perforated with at least a dozen existing screw holes. I placed a screw in a new location higher than all existing holes, and then I placed another lower in an existing hole. Since the ice was thin, I had to tie off both of the 16cm screws. I brought up Peter and he began the next pitch.

We were taking the easiest option on this pitch which was a hacked out section of lower angle ice just to the left of a pillar. Peter climbed it well and was soon on the snow slope above. Later, I was yelling that he was running out of rope. Then the rope tightened. I could not hear him due to all the parties around trying to communicate. Fortunately he knew to build an anchor and I did eventually hear him yell I was on belay. This possibly gave me little confidence in climbing the next ice step which I had difficulty with. Partially for not being able to find pick placements, but also because it was a bit awkward. I cleared the ice step with no issues and reached the snow slope above where Peter was belaying me off a picket and an ice ax. (Yipe!) When I got to a rock that he had placed a few cams in, I made that a belay and belayed him to a few small trees so he could belay me up the slope proper.

I continued from that position up a bit more where the slope narrowed on a bit of an arete and reached the false summit. I gave Peter a belay up and we basked in the sun. (The first time I had been in the sun since the start of the second pitch.) The wind in the summit area was strong and it was difficult to eat and organize gear. We waited quite a while before Scott and Eric joined us. Then we all ran over to the summit. Once back we geared up to get down.

Truthfully in the conditions we had we could have down climbed the first gully. But since we had two ropes, we rappelled the gully. The lower gully does not look easy to down climb and required another double rope rappel to gain the bottom. Unfortunately it was off a wonky anchor. Once done with the second rappel, we down climbed the slope below it before it opened into the basin and we were able to hike out. During our descent we shared our rope with a party of two who arrived near the summit after us. This lengthened our descent, and we were using headlamps by the end of the second rap. We then slowly worked our way back to Source Lake and out to the parking lot.

Overall this was a great trip. The weather forecast of afternoon snow never occurred, and we had mostly clear skies during the day. (There were some low clouds on the peak early on and then when we were leaving.) Conditions were good and we all had a great time. My only complaint is that I did not get to lead any of the harder pitches. We all had a fun time and were moderately delayed by other parties. Next time I'll go back and try the north face. While I do not think we did the NE buttress proper, it was an enjoyable climb and exactly what I was looking for. And I think having those options on the route make it what it is, choose your own adventure.

My pics are here.
Scott's pics are here.

*The law of diminishing returns as applied to alpine starts:
While I am a fan of the alpine start, I notice that too many times the start is too early. This can be gauged by the pre-dawn mishaps that occur and possible late day issues. If you wake too early, party members may not get enough sleep and that affects performance throughout the day and may even cause mistakes. Although my hunch is that leaving too early causes everyone to be slower and ultimately you wind up returning at the same time as if you had left later. Another issue is navigation by headlamp. If you know the route, then this is not really an issue. Or if it is a well beaten path or trail, it may not also be an issue. But we had difficulty navigating in the dark and it did cost us the ability to be first on route. So timing is everything to get the most out of your alpine start investment. Too early and you risk mistakes. Too late and you risk success.

Mount Catherine - 11.25.09

Scott had the day off and wanted to ski before Thanksgiving. I wanted to burn the calories that I was about to consume, so I happily obliged. The plan if there was good snow was to go yo-yo somewhere and have fun in the powder. However, it looks like we have hit the El Nino segment of our dark months with higher temps. This meant rain at the passes the day previous and a 10000' freezing level on the day of our trip.

Skinning up the slopes of Hyak

So we headed for Mount Catherine with the hopes of a summit. Chad joined us at the Mercer Island Park and Ride and we were on our way. The weather was clear and we saw a beautiful sunrise before arriving at Snoqualmie Pass to low clouds and fog. Instead of taking the Sno Park and forest road in as it seemed tedious. We opted for the skin up Hyak and over the other side. We followed forest roads (Nordic ski trails) down the other side a bit before leaving on a bearing across the North Face. After endless traversing through trees, we got to an open area which we confirmed with the map was the east end of the summit ridge. There were cliffs and no obvious way up, so we traversed more and more which reminded Scott and I about the Ski Patrol Race we had done back in February.

Heading into the trees

We occasionally crossed open slopes and contemplated trying to gain the ridge to the summit but we were having little luck. Our difficulties were exacerbated by the constant fog which made seeing ahead not easy and gave us little incentive to try and head up only to be confronted by cliffs. So we maintained a fairly level traverse and then we started seeing flatter terrain. We finally made it near Windy Pass and eventually saw a sign with an arrow pointing in that direction. There was a weather monitoring station there too, and some blue diamond trail markers. We stopped for lunch. (It was around 1pm.) The sun just barely came out briefly enough for us to see our shadows. Then we deskinned for a short ski down to another road. At this point we had forsaken our summit attempt and were content with a circumnavigation.

A more open area

Unfortunately due to the poor sloppy snow conditions and the ungroomed state of the road, going downhill on the road took almost as much effort as going uphill. We worked hard to make our way out and after it seemed like there would be no more downhill, I gave up on the skinless skis and stopped to put my skins back on as it seemed they would offer me better propulsion. They did, but Scott and Chad were out of site, and I did not catch up with them until the final downhill to the parking lot in the Hyak ski area. (Which was in more disappointing slop.)

Boulder field

Overall, I was happy to get out. The weather wasn't great, but that wasn't really a big deal. We knew going into it that the snow wasn't going to be so good for skiing, but it was more about the journey. Even though the road out was tiring and tedious, it was still better than being on snowshoes. Plus I think this is the first time I have circumnavigated a peak. Cool.

The road out

Prusik Peak - West Ridge - 06.06-07.09

Elevation Gain: 6650'
~18 miles RT
2 Days
West Ridge: 5 hours up, 1:30 down

Scott asked me if I'd be willing to lead a climb of Prusik Peak in the Enchantments for the weekend. I told him yes, as long as we attempted some other climbs on Temple Ridge as well.

We got together a team of four for the climb and decided on a leisurely start to the trip. This was a mistake as it really cut our chances of getting in multiple climbs. We were hiking from the Snow Creek Trail Head around 10am, with the hopes of reaching the Enchantments in the early afternoon with time to complete a climb.

Our original intent was to hike in and camp somewhere near or above Snow Lakes. However, while on route we checked our beta and the maps and decided that we would have the best chance at completing three climbs if we came in from the north side up Temple Canyon. This approach was similar (and probably worse) than heading to the Enchantments via Asgard Pass. We left the Snow Creek Trail around Nada Creek and headed up. It first started with loose talus terrain with a slight boot path or drainage. Then we met a short 5th class step that we roped up for to surmount. Above that we saw a few cairns, but it was mostly scrambling to reach more level ground in the canyon. Once on more level ground it was impossible to follow any trails with the patchy snow, so we mostly hugged the creek. By around 6pm we were tired, and it made sense to start looking for camp. We were successful in finding some flatter spots near a lake around 6300'.

During dinner (Kudos to Bram for bringing up sausage and pasta in the box. What a champ.) we discussed what had to be done on Sunday. Since we all knew heading back out the way we came in would be difficult route finding and involve a rappel with full packs, we decided it was in our best interest to head out via Snow Lakes.

It rained during the night and we awoke at our original time with severe fog and we decided only one climb would be tackled as we went to sleep for another hour or two. Later when we awoke again, the sun was starting to come out and we could see the peaks around us. By the time we ate breakfast and packed up camp, we were in the fog again. Route finding was difficult, but we mostly kept near the creek heading in the general direction of Prusik Pass. The snow conditions did not help our situation as there was mostly continuous snow with patches of exposed rock and slabs that were wet and had numerous moats and voids. With all the moisture in the air and the wet rock about our thoughts were moving to just getting to Prusik Pass to start our descent back to the trail head.

After a few hours of wallowing, the sky parted enough for us to get a pinpoint on our location. We were above Shield Lake and below Temple Ridge. After a steep snow slope and some rock scrambling, we arrived at the base of the climb where the rock was dry, and we were ready to gear up.

By now it was noon and we were going to have to be fast and efficient to complete the route and not come out by headlamp. There was a party on route ahead of us, but they were a few pitches up and shouldn't slow us down. But since it appeared we might catch them, we decided to pitch out the first two pitches rather than simul climb them. The first pitch was fairly mellow and mostly 4th class with a few 5th class moves. Scott led off first and belayed atop a crack on a nice perch. Bram followed behind him and I led up to just under their belay location. While belaying Jay up the first pitch we experienced the clouds rolling in again this time with some hail. Fortunately it was not wetting the rock and we figured it would blow over, which it did. Then we headed out on the second pitch which had more 5th class including an interesting steep crack bit, but also a fair amount of 4th class as well.

Once at the top of the second pitch, we were at the crux of the climb, the 5.7 unprotectable slab. It looks far more imposing than it is and even has a bit of exposure. This is truly a quality pitch. There is a piton to clip at the base of the slab, and then you climb the slab using the arete as a hand hold. After a short bit you gain a flake where pro can be placed. Then it is around a corner on an airy exposed alpine traverse. (You just can't get climbing like this cragging.) Made even more dramatic by the clouds blowing in. We stopped the pitch short due to rope drag and then did a roped scramble on 4th class to the base of the summit pitch.

Jay led the summit pitch which was quality climbing on flakes and cracks including a final chimney section to reach the summit. It was difficult following this pitch as the pack kept putting me off balance and jamming into the rock. (We had ice axes and boots for the return to the base.) We did haul packs up the final chimney, so it was convenient not to climb the chimney with a pack. Once on the summit we proceeded to take a few summit photos and start rappelling as we were running late. (We had the option to bail before the 4th class, but we figured what was another hour added to our return time for the final pitch.)

Five rappels later we were at the snow and attempting to stay on the rock for the high traverse back to the base of the climb. The high traverse was fairly easy and quick back to the packs. We packed up and then proceed to head west on the ridge until we could down climb south toward Lake Vivian.

Unfortunately, we left the base of the climb after 7pm and we were hustling down the snow and slabs until we could finally reach the Snow Creek Trail near Lake Vivian. Also, once we reached the trail we accidentally headed the wrong way for a bit before realizing our error and returning to the correct direction. Initially we made good time, and reached Snow Lakes by 9pm. Headlamps came on around 9:30pm and we hustled down the trail. Jay started falling behind and Scott hung with him to keep him with the group while Bram and I forged ahead scouting difficult areas through bogs, slabs and creek crossings. When we arrived at Nada Lake we made a decision to stop to pump water once we reached the footbridge a bit further down the trail.

At the footbridge we took a long break and took a bulk a Jay's gear and spread it among us so his burden could be eased for the rest of the way down. From there we started hiking again and then came up with the idea of sending Bram to the car to drop his pack and then come back up for Jay's pack. Being three miles out meant we wouldn't see a return on this result until the final half mile, but I think Jay was thankful for it. Hiking down the trail with Snow Creek Wall bathed in moonlight. We all hit the car spent around 2:30 Monday morning.

Nothing was open in Leavenworth, so we couldn't even get a snack and proceeded to drive back to Seattle. By Steven's Pass, only Jay and I were up but both fading fast. So we stopped and took a 15 minute snooze break. I may have reawaken briefly but it appears I fell asleep in the car shortly west of Steven's Pass only to come alive when we dropped Scott off at his car in Monroe. I finally arrived home after 6am and promptly went to bed.

This was an interesting trip. It felt way more strenuous than Mt. Rainier last week and left my body in worse shape. (The skiing on Friday probably did not help.) The mileage of getting into the Enchantments really seems to be the downfall for me. Heavy overnight packs with climbing gear was not helping matters. I think if we had better weather, and trail conditions we could have at least accomplished two climbs in two days. (Assuming we started earlier on Saturday.) I think most people would enjoy the Prusik, High Priest, and Temple combo in a three day trip. It was nice to climb Prusik which had a nice technical pitch for the summit that was really enjoyable climbing. The crux pitch was also a really fine alpine pitch as well.

My pics are here.
Bram's pics here.
Scott's here.

Lichtenberg Mountain ski - 03.14.09

I was fortunate enough to get invited on a backcountry ski that Ed Palushock was organizing. The goal was to ski northern exposures on Lichtenberg Mountain near Steven's Pass. An early start time was recommended as we were going to be a group of eight and avalanche danger was forecast to increase throughout the day. This was mainly due to the weekend weather forecast for lots of snow in the mountains. It was going to be an interesting experience where many of the people were not aware of my some time inability to ski.

When 5:30 am at the park and ride hit, we were down to six participants. A call to Chloe, and she was going to meet us at the trail head. On the way up, we were slightly dismayed by such a high snow level. (We were only a few miles from the pass when the rain changed over to snow, perhaps 3000' or so.) We joked in the car I was in that if it was raining at the pass, we'd turn around and head to the Sultan Bakery. Snow, albeit heavy and wet did arrive at the pass and for the few miles we had to drive past it. We parked as near as we could get to Smith Brook Road as there were at least a dozen cars already parked at the pull-out. Some, if not most had been there overnight.

We geared up and skinned up the road. Wet snow was coming down constantly. It was a losing battle trying to stay dry. Either you wore hard shells and sweated it out, or took off the shells and got soaked from snow. I chose the former, as it tends to be easier to maintain heat if the wind picks up, or if you stop for an extended period. After two switchbacks in the road, we left it for a skin track up the Northeast Ridge of Lichtenberg. Some sections of the skin track were poorly laid down, and we had to negotiate steep switchbacks with many kick turns. The ridge leveled out after a bit, and became easier. There was one more section where we followed the skin track to the right of the ridge, where there were more steep switchbacks. We were able to leave the skin track for an easier way up. Jonathan found an even easier way up closer to the left side of the ridge.

At that point we dug a pit. Not on the steepest slope, but it was what we had to work with. Our findings were similar to the "moderate" forecast for avalanches for today.

A little more climbing and we reached our high point. Probably around 200' vertical from the summit. There was a brief break, as we transitioned to downhill. We took a bearing on the map on our descent route, and started to head down.

As predicted the snow was powdery. We skied in pairs on the way down, as Barbara and I followed up the rear being the two with the least experience. I had a couple of falls, including one where my shovel blade somehow came off my pack. Barbara was kind enough to pick it up, and promptly fall while trying to ski holding a shovel blade. With my blade and I reunited, our group continued down the slopes. We were mostly on benches and there was a section of steeper terrain where I lost my shovel blade where the upper layers of snow were sloughing.

We navigated down the benches and eventually returned to the road higher up than we left it. Since the snow down low was sticky, we took a moment to apply some wax and headed down the road. We took another diversion by cutting the switch backs in the road to ski the slopes in between. This was not very good for me, as I found this lower snow much more difficult to ski.

Overall it was a fun trip, even if it was a little wet. Ed taught me a few things, and gave me a few pointers. It was a great learning experience because of it. I did not ski that poorly, but I was definitely the worst skier of the bunch. Also, my boots were bothering me a touch where both of my big toes were banging into the front of the boot. They also felt like I could have tightened them more. I thought this was because of the resort skiing where I had them very tight. When I got home I found the true reason. I forgot to put the foot beds back into the boots before leaving the house this morning.

Some pics are here.